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Kasane no Irome

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Kasane no Irome 襲の色目 (literally: layers of color) are the color schemes used to define the layering, colors and order of Heian-era robes worn at court. These rules applied to karaginu mo, itsutsu-ginu-kouchiki and other types of clothing we now call junihitoe. Kasane no Irome color schemes were prescribed on the basis of formality, season and the lady's rank: the forbidden color, murasaki (violet) and to a slightly less extent, kurenai (scarlet-pink) were only to be worn by those favored by the Imperial family. The color murasaki (violet) was so highly esteemed that any period reference to "(the) color" usually refers to murasaki- in fact, the color "Usu Iro" (a shade of pale violet) literally means "pale color" when translated directly. Murasaki also lends its name to both the heroine and the authoress of the Heian period's most famous literary work, the monumental Tale of Genji.


Contents

Kasane no Irome Layering Schemes

Notes About Reading Kasane no Irome Schemes
Some of the kinu which appear to be unlined may, in fact, be lined in the same color. The Japanese texts use list the "bottom" and "top" colors of the kinu, using the same terminology to refer to (1) kasane obviously lined with different colors (2) kasane completely unlined and (3) kasane lined with the same color as their top/outside color. There is no way of telling whether a kinu is 2 or 3 from the texts beyond inference; it seems logical that in a kasane no irome scheme where several of the other kinu are lined in differing colors, that any seemingly unlined kinu may, in fact, be lined with their own color- but this can only be inferred. The colors used to depict the layers are sampled from scans of the book 素晴らしい装束の世界―いまに生きる千年のファッション (IBSN 9784416805442) and these colors are used throughout the page for uniformity's sake, even on kasane schemes which do not appear in the book. Evidence from other sources- including the research of reenactors and reproductions in the Kyoto Costume Museum- indicate that the colors used may be much more saturated than as depicted in 9784416805442; alternate hex codes for color palettes will be added later. Some equally valid references list different linings or layer colors for kasane schemes; each kasane scheme and its variants will have which sources support it listed beneath it.

Several kasane no irome share an identical or very similar name, but are different colors, and several kasane also possess two or three variants.

Things for SPECIAL OCCASIONS, no special time of year

Name Hitoe Kinu 1 Kinu 2 Kinu 3 Kinu 4 Kinu 5
紅梅の匂 / KOUBAI NO NIOI
Scent of Plum-Pink

Ao
Blue-Green



Ao
Blue-Green

Lining
濃蘇芳
Koki Suou
Deep Maroon
濃紅梅
Koki Koubai
Deep Plum-Pink


濃紅梅
Koki Koubai
Deep Plum-Pink

Lining
蘇芳
Suou
Deep maroon
紅梅
Koubai
Plum-Pink


紅梅
Koubai
Plum-Pink

Lining
蘇芳
Suou
Deep maroon
紅梅
Koubai
Plum-Pink


紅梅
Koubai
Plum-Pink

Lining
淡蘇芳
Awaii Suou
Light maroon
淡紅梅
Awaki Koubai
Light Plum-Pink


淡紅梅
Awaki Koubai
Light Plum-Pink

Lining
より淡い蘇芳
Yoi Awaii Suou
Lighter (lit. "More Light") Maroon
より淡い紅梅
Yoi Awaii Koubai
Lighter (lit. "More Light") Plum-Pink

より淡い紅梅
Yoi Awaii Koubai
Lighter (lit. "More Light") Plum-Pink
Citation: Red-hitoe variant affirmed by Dalby, Fuyuya;
Green-hitoe variant affirmed by 9784416805442, Dalby, Fuyuya, Kariginu.jp, Sengoku Daimyo;
Presence of linings/lining colors affirmed by 9784416805442 and Kariginu.jp.


Name Hitoe Kinu 1 Kinu 2 Kinu 3 Kinu 4 Kinu 5
紅梅の匂
KOUBAI NO NIOI

Scent of Plum-Pink
濃蘇芳
Koki Suou
Deep Maroon


濃蘇芳
Koki Suou
Deep Maroon

Lining
濃蘇芳
Koki Suou
Deep Maroon
濃紅梅
Koki Koubai
Deep Plum-Pink


濃紅梅
Koki Koubai
Deep Plum-Pink

Lining
蘇芳
Suou
Deep maroon
紅梅
Koubai
Plum-Pink


紅梅
Koubai
Plum-Pink

Lining
蘇芳
Suou
Deep maroon
紅梅
Koubai
Plum-Pink


紅梅
Koubai
Plum-Pink

Lining
淡蘇芳
Awaii Suou
Light maroon
淡紅梅
Awaki Koubai
Light Plum-Pink


淡紅梅
Awaki Koubai
Light Plum-Pink

Lining
より淡い蘇芳
Yoi Awaii Suou
Lighter (lit. "More Light") Maroon
より淡い紅梅
Yoi Awaii Koubai
Lighter (lit. "More Light") Plum-Pink

より淡い紅梅
Yoi Awaii Koubai
Lighter (lit. "More Light") Plum-Pink
Alternate Version; Citation: Red-hitoe variant affirmed by Dalby, Fuyuya;
Green-hitoe variant affirmed by 9784416805442, Dalby, Fuyuya, Kariginu.jp, Sengoku Daimyo;
Presence of linings/lining colors affirmed by 9784416805442 and Kariginu.jp.

The sources listing the red hitoe variant do not list linings, but it can be inferred that the color linings found in the green-hitoe variant are present in the red-hitoe variant.


Name Hitoe Kinu 1 Kinu 2 Kinu 3 Kinu 4 Kinu 5
紅の匂
KURENAI NO NIOI

Scent of Scarlet-Pink
紅梅
Koubai
Plum-Pink


紅梅
Koubai
Plum-Pink

より淡い紅
Yoi Awaii Kurenai
Lighter (lit. "More Light") Scarlet-Pink


より淡い紅
Yoi Awaii Kurenai
Lighter (lit. "More Light") Scarlet-Pink

淡紅
Awaii Kurenai
Light Scarlet-Pink


淡紅
Awaii Kurenai
Light Scarlet-Pink


Kurenai
Scarlet-Pink



Kurenai
Scarlet-Pink


Kurenai
Scarlet-Pink



Kurenai
Scarlet-Pink

濃紅
Koki Kurenai
Deep Scarlet-Pink

濃紅
Koki Kurenai
Deep Scarlet-Pink
Citation: affirmed by 9784416805442, LizaDalby, Fuyuya.com, Kariginu.jp, SengokuDaimyo


Name Hitoe Kinu 1 Kinu 2 Kinu 3 Kinu 4 Kinu 5
紅の薄様
KURENAI NO USUYO

Thinning Scarlet

Shiro
White



Shiro
White


Shiro
White



Shiro
White


Shiro
White



Shiro
White

より淡い紅
Yoi Awaii Kurenai
Lighter (lit. "More Light") Scarlet-Pink


より淡い紅
Yoi Awaii Kurenai
Lighter (lit. "More Light") Scarlet-Pink

淡紅
Awaii Kurenai
Light Scarlet-Pink


淡紅
Awaii Kurenai
Light Scarlet-Pink


Kurenai
Scarlet-Pink


Kurenai
Scarlet-Pink
Citation: affirmed by 9784416805442, LizaDalby, Fuyuya.com, Kariginu.jp, SengokuDaimyo


Name Hitoe Kinu 1 Kinu 2 Kinu 3 Kinu 4 Kinu 5
松重
MATSU GASANE

Pine-Tree Layers

Kurenai
Scarlet-Pink



Kurenai
Scarlet-Pink

より淡い萌黄
Yoi Awaii Moegi
Lighter (lit. "More Light") Sprout-Green


より淡い萌黄
Yoi Awaii Moegi
Lighter (lit. "More Light") Sprout-Green

淡萌黄
Awaii Moegi
Light Sprout-Green


淡萌黄
Awaii Moegi
Light Sprout-Green

萌黄
Moegi
Sprout-Green


萌黄
Moegi
Sprout-Green

淡蘇芳
Awaii Suou
Light maroon


淡蘇芳
Awaii Suou
Light maroon

蘇芳
Suou
Deep maroon

蘇芳
Suou
Deep maroon
Citation: affirmed by 9784416805442, LizaDalby, Fuyuya.com, Kariginu.jp, SengokuDaimyo


Name Hitoe Kinu 1 Kinu 2 Kinu 3 Kinu 4 Kinu 5
松重
MATSU GASANE

Pine-Tree Layers
(Tashi Version)

Kurenai
Scarlet-Pink



Kurenai
Scarlet-Pink

より淡い萌黄
Yoi Awaii Moegi
Lighter (lit. "More Light") Sprout-Green


より淡い萌黄
Yoi Awaii Moegi
Lighter (lit. "More Light") Sprout-Green

淡萌黄
Awaii Moegi
Light Sprout-Green


淡萌黄
Awaii Moegi
Light Sprout-Green

萌黄
Moegi
Sprout-Green


萌黄
Moegi
Sprout-Green

 ???
???
Light Blue-Green


 ???
???
Light Blue-Green

 ???
???
Deep Blue-Green

 ???
???
Deep Blue-Green
Citation: affirmed by LizaDalby, Fuyuya.com


Name Hitoe Kinu 1 Kinu 2 Kinu 3 Kinu 4 Kinu 5
萌黄の匂
MOEGI NO NIOI

Scent of Sprout-Green

Kurenai
Scarlet-Pink



Kurenai
Scarlet-Pink

濃萌黄
Koki Moegi
Dark Sprout-Green


濃萌黄
Koki Moegi
Dark Sprout-Green

萌黄
Moegi
Sprout-Green


萌黄
Moegi
Sprout-Green

萌黄
Moegi
Sprout-Green


萌黄
Moegi
Sprout-Green

淡萌黄
Awaii Midori
Light Sprout-Green


淡萌黄
Awaii Midori
Light Sprout-Green

より淡い萌黄
Yoi Awaii Moegi
Lighter Sprout-Green

より淡い萌黄
Yoi Awaii Moegi
Lighter Sprout-Green
Citation: affirmed by 9784416805442, LizaDalby, Fuyuya.com, Kariginu.jp, SengokuDaimyo


Name Hitoe Kinu 1 Kinu 2 Kinu 3 Kinu 4 Kinu 5
蘇芳の匂
SUOU NO NIOI

Scent of Sappanwood
(Version 1)

Ao
Blue-Green



Ao
Blue-Green

濃蘇芳
Koki Suou
Deep Maroon


濃蘇芳
Koki Suou
Deep Maroon

蘇芳
Suou
Deep maroon


蘇芳
Suou
Deep maroon

蘇芳
Suou
Deep maroon


蘇芳
Suou
Deep maroon

淡蘇芳
Awaii Suou
Light maroon


淡蘇芳
Awaii Suou
Light maroon

淡蘇芳
Awaii Suou
Light maroon

淡蘇芳
Awaii Suou
Light maroon
Citation: affirmed by 9784416805442, LizaDalby, Fuyuya.com, Kariginu.jp, SengokuDaimyo


Name Hitoe Kinu 1 Kinu 2 Kinu 3 Kinu 4 Kinu 5
蘇芳の匂
SUOU NO NIOI

Scent of Sappanwood
(Version 2)

Ao
Blue-Green



Ao
Blue-Green

 ???
???
Deep persimmon


 ???
???
Deep persimmon


Shiro
White



Shiro
White

淡蘇芳
Awaii Suou
Light maroon


淡蘇芳
Awaii Suou
Light maroon

蘇芳
Suou
Maroon


蘇芳
Suou
Maroon

濃蘇芳
Koki Suou
Deep Maroon

濃蘇芳
Koki Suou
Deep Maroon
Citation: affirmed by Fuyuya.com


Name Hitoe Kinu 1 Kinu 2 Kinu 3 Kinu 4 Kinu 5
??? / URA KOKI SUOU
Deep Maroon Linings

Ao
Blue-Green



Ao
Blue-Green

Lining
蘇芳
Suou
Maroon
濃蘇芳
Koki Suou
Deep Maroon


濃蘇芳
Koki Suou
Deep Maroon

Lining
蘇芳
Suou
Maroon
濃蘇芳
Koki Suou
Deep Maroon


濃蘇芳
Koki Suou
Deep Maroon

Lining
蘇芳
Suou
Maroon
濃蘇芳
Koki Suou
Deep Maroon


濃蘇芳
Koki Suou
Deep Maroon

Lining
蘇芳
Suou
Maroon
濃蘇芳
Koki Suou
Deep Maroon


濃蘇芳
Koki Suou
Deep Maroon

Lining
蘇芳
Suou
Maroon
濃蘇芳
Koki Suou
Deep Maroon

濃蘇芳
Koki Suou
Deep Maroon
Citation: affirmed by LizaDalby, Fuyuya.com; existence and seasonality affirmed by SengokuDaimyo


Name Hitoe Kinu 1 Kinu 2 Kinu 3 Kinu 4 Kinu 5
??? / USU MOEGI
Pale Moegi Duet

Kurenai
Scarlet-Pink



Kurenai
Scarlet-Pink

Lining
 ???
slightly darker blue-green
 ???
Pale
blue-green


 ???
Pale
blue-green

Lining
 ???
slightly darker blue-green
 ???
Pale
blue-green


 ???
Pale
blue-green

Lining
 ???
slightly darker blue-green
 ???
Pale
blue-green


 ???
Pale
blue-green

Lining
 ???
slightly darker blue-green
 ???
Pale
blue-green


 ???
Pale
blue-green

Lining
 ???
slightly darker blue-green
 ???
Pale
blue-green


 ???
Pale
blue-green

Citation: affirmed by LizaDalby, Fuyuya.com


Name Hitoe Kinu 1 Kinu 2 Kinu 3 Kinu 4 Kinu 5
柳 / YANAGI
Willow
(Version 1)

Kurenai
Scarlet-Pink



Kurenai
Scarlet-Pink

Lining
 ???
pale blue-green

Shiro
White



Shiro
White

Lining
 ???
pale blue-green

Shiro
White



Shiro
White

Lining
 ???
pale blue-green

Shiro
White



Shiro
White

Lining
 ???
pale blue-green

Shiro
White



Shiro
White

Lining
 ???
pale blue-green

Shiro
White



Shiro
White

Citation: affirmed by LizaDalby, Fuyuya.com; existence and seasonality affirmed by Kariginu.jp, SengokuDaimyo


Name Hitoe Kinu 1 Kinu 2 Kinu 3 Kinu 4 Kinu 5
柳 / YANAGI
Willow
(Version 2)

Kurenai
Scarlet-Pink



Kurenai
Scarlet-Pink

Lining
 ???
dark blue-green

Shiro
White



Shiro
White

Lining
 ???
medium-dark blue-green

Shiro
White



Shiro
White

Lining
 ???
medium blue-green

Shiro
White



Shiro
White

Lining
 ???
medium blue-green

Shiro
White



Shiro
White

Lining
 ???
pale blue-green

Shiro
White



Shiro
White

Citation: affirmed by LizaDalby, Fuyuya.com; existence and seasonality affirmed by Kariginu.jp, SengokuDaimyo


From the 10th lunar month: PADDED SILK

Since these kasane were worn in winter, it seems likely that for kasane schemes where the linings are not listed, the kinu are inferred to simply be lined in the same color. Dalby also surmises this (p.266)

Name Hitoe Kinu 1 Kinu 2 Kinu 3 Kinu 4 Kinu 5
青紅葉 / Ao momiji
Green Maples
(Version 1)
蘇芳
Suou
Maroon


蘇芳
Suou
Maroon

Lining

Kurenai
Scarlet-Pink

Kurenai
Scarlet-Pink



Kurenai
Scarlet-Pink

Lining

Ki
Yellow
淡朽葉
Awaii Kuchiba
Light Decayed-Leaves (color)


淡朽葉
Awaii Kuchiba
Light Decayed-Leaves (color)

Lining

Ki
Yellow

Ki
Yellow



Ki
Yellow

Lining
淡青
Awaii Ao
Light Blue-Green
淡青
Awaii Ao
Light Blue-Green


淡青
Awaii Ao
Light Blue-Green

Lining

Ao
Blue-Green

Ao
Blue-Green



Ao
Blue-Green

Citation: affirmed by 9784416805442, Fuyuya.com, Kariginu.jp, SengokuDaimyo; linings affirmed by 9784416805442 and Kariginu.jp


Name Hitoe Kinu 1 Kinu 2 Kinu 3 Kinu 4 Kinu 5
青紅葉 / Ao momiji
Green Maples
(Version 2)
蘇芳
Suou
Maroon


蘇芳
Suou
Maroon

Lining

Kurenai
Scarlet-Pink

Kurenai
Scarlet-Pink



Kurenai
Scarlet-Pink

Lining

Ki
Yellow
淡朽葉
Awaii Kuchiba
Light Decayed-Leaves (color)


淡朽葉
Awaii Kuchiba
Light Decayed-Leaves (color)

Lining

Ki
Yellow

Ki
Yellow



Ki
Yellow

Lining
 ???
???
Deep Yellow (color value and Japanese name unconfirmed!)
 ???
???
Deep Yellow (color value and Japanese name unconfirmed!)


 ???
???
Deep Yellow (color value and Japanese name unconfirmed!)

Lining

Ao
Blue-Green

Ao
Blue-Green



Ao
Blue-Green

Citation: affirmed by LizaDalby, Fuyuya.com, SengokuDaimyo; linings are not confirmed, but probably present in identical form to variant 1 of this kasane. The exact identity of the color translated as Deep Yellow is unconfirmed.


Name Hitoe Kinu 1 Kinu 2 Kinu 3 Kinu 4 Kinu 5
櫨紅葉
HAJI MOMIJI

Sumac Maples
(Version 1)

Kurenai
Scarlet-Pink



Kurenai
Scarlet-Pink

蘇芳
Suou
Maroon


蘇芳
Suou
Maroon


Kurenai
Scarlet-Pink



Kurenai
Scarlet-Pink

淡朽葉
Awaii Kuchiba
Light Decayed-Leaves (color)


淡朽葉
Awaii Kuchiba
Light Decayed-Leaves (color)


Ki
Yellow



Ki
Yellow


Ki
Yellow



Ki
Yellow

Citation: affirmed by LizaDalby, Fuyuya.com


Name Hitoe Kinu 1 Kinu 2 Kinu 3 Kinu 4 Kinu 5
櫨紅葉
HAJI MOMIJI

Sumac maples
(Tashi Version)
蘇芳
Suou
Maroon


蘇芳
Suou
Maroon

蘇芳
Suou
Maroon


蘇芳
Suou
Maroon

蘇芳
Suou
Maroon


蘇芳
Suou
Maroon

淡朽葉
Awaii Kuchiba
Light Decayed-Leaves (color)


淡朽葉
Awaii Kuchiba
Light Decayed-Leaves (color)

淡朽葉
Awaii Kuchiba
Light Decayed-Leaves (color)


淡朽葉
Awaii Kuchiba
Light Decayed-Leaves (color)


Ki
Yellow



Ki
Yellow

Citation: affirmed by LizaDalby, Fuyuya.com


Name Hitoe Kinu 1 Kinu 2 Kinu 3 Kinu 4 Kinu 5
楓紅葉 / KAEDE MOMIJI
Maple Maples
(Version 1)
蘇芳
Suou
Maroon


蘇芳
Suou
Maroon

Lining

Kurenai
Scarlet-Pink

Kurenai
Scarlet-Pink



Kurenai
Scarlet-Pink

Lining

Ki
Yellow
淡朽葉
Awaii Kuchiba
Light Decayed-Leaves (color)


淡朽葉
Awaii Kuchiba
Light Decayed-Leaves (color)

Lining

Ki
Yellow

Ki
Yellow



Ki
Yellow

Lining
淡青
Awaii Ao
Light Blue-Green
淡青
Awaii Ao
Light Blue-Green


淡青
Awaii Ao
Light Blue-Green

Lining
淡青
Awaii Ao
Light Blue-Green
淡青
Awaii Ao
Light Blue-Green


淡青
Awaii Ao
Light Blue-Green

Citation: affirmed by 9784416805442, LizaDalby, Fuyuya.com, Kariginu.jp, SengokuDaimyo; Linings affirmed by 9784416805442, Kariginu.jp


Name Hitoe Kinu 1 Kinu 2 Kinu 3 Kinu 4 Kinu 5
楓紅葉 / KAEDE MOMIJI
Maple Maples
(Version 2)

Kurenai
Scarlet-Pink



Kurenai
Scarlet-Pink

Lining

Kurenai
Scarlet-Pink

Kurenai
Scarlet-Pink



Kurenai
Scarlet-Pink

Lining

Ki
Yellow
淡朽葉
Awaii Kuchiba
Light Decayed-Leaves (color)


淡朽葉
Awaii Kuchiba
Light Decayed-Leaves (color)

Lining

Ki
Yellow

Ki
Yellow



Ki
Yellow

Lining
淡青
Awaii Ao
Light Blue-Green
淡青
Awaii Ao
Light Blue-Green


淡青
Awaii Ao
Light Blue-Green

Lining
淡青
Awaii Ao
Light Blue-Green
淡青
Awaii Ao
Light Blue-Green


淡青
Awaii Ao
Light Blue-Green

Citation: affirmed by LizaDalby, Fuyuya.com; Linings are inferred from their presence in variant 1 of this kasane


Name Hitoe Kinu 1 Kinu 2 Kinu 3 Kinu 4 Kinu 5
捩り紅葉 / MOJIRI KAEDE -OR- MOJIRI MOMIJI
Parody Maples
(Version 1)

Kurenai
Scarlet-Pink



Kurenai
Scarlet-Pink

Lining

Kurenai
Scarlet-Pink

Kurenai
Scarlet-Pink



Kurenai
Scarlet-Pink

Lining

Ki
Yellow
淡朽葉
Awaii Kuchiba
Light Decayed-Leaves (color)


淡朽葉
Awaii Kuchiba
Light Decayed-Leaves (color)

Lining
淡朽葉
Awaii Kuchiba
Light Decayed-Leaves (color)

Ki
Yellow



Ki
Yellow

Lining
淡青
Awaii Ao
Light Blue-Green
淡青
Awaii Ao
Light Blue-Green


淡青
Awaii Ao
Light Blue-Green

Lining

Ao
Blue-Green

Ao
Blue-Green



Ao
Blue-Green

Citation: affirmed by 9784416805442, Fuyuya.com, Kariginu.jp, SengokuDaimyo; Linings affirmed by 9784416805442, Kariginu.jp; this kasane has been listed as both Mojiri Kaede and Mojiri Momiji (kaede and momiji are both readings for the character meaning maple in Japanese)


Name Hitoe Kinu 1 Kinu 2 Kinu 3 Kinu 4 Kinu 5
捩り紅葉 / MOJIRI KAEDE -OR- MOJIRI MOMIJI
Parody Maples
(Version 2)

Kurenai
Scarlet-Pink



Kurenai
Scarlet-Pink

Lining
淡黄
Awaii Ki
Light Yellow

Kurenai
Scarlet-Pink



Kurenai
Scarlet-Pink

Lining

Ki
Yellow
淡朽葉
Awaii Kuchiba
Light Decayed-Leaves (color)


淡朽葉
Awaii Kuchiba
Light Decayed-Leaves (color)

Lining
淡朽葉
Awaii Kuchiba
Light Decayed-Leaves (color)

Ki
Yellow



Ki
Yellow

Lining

Kurenai
Scarlet-Pink
淡青
Awaii Ao
Light Blue-Green


淡青
Awaii Ao
Light Blue-Green

Lining
淡紅
Awaii Kurenai
Light Scarlet-Pink

Ao
Blue-Green



Ao
Blue-Green

Citation: Linings variant affirmed by Fuyuya.com, LizaDalby; this kasane has been listed as both Mojiri Kaede and Mojiri Momiji (kaede and momiji are both readings for the character meaning maple in Japanese)


Name Hitoe Kinu 1 Kinu 2 Kinu 3 Kinu 4 Kinu 5
黄菊
KI GIKU

Yellow chrysanthemums
(Version 1)

Ao
Blue-Green



Ao
Blue-Green

淡黄
Awaii Ki
Light Yellow


淡黄
Awaii Ki
Light Yellow

淡黄
Awaii Ki
Light Yellow


淡黄
Awaii Ki
Light Yellow

淡蘇芳
Awaii Suou
Light maroon


淡蘇芳
Awaii Suou
Light maroon

淡蘇芳
Awaii Suou
Light maroon


淡蘇芳
Awaii Suou
Light maroon

蘇芳
Suou
Maroon


蘇芳
Suou
Maroon

Citation: affirmed by 9784416805442, Fuyuya.com, Kariginu.jp, LizaDalby, SengokuDaimyo; Dalby seems to indicate that the top three robes should be gradating shades of suou, but this is not clear


Name Hitoe Kinu 1 Kinu 2 Kinu 3 Kinu 4 Kinu 5
黄菊
KI GIKU

Yellow chrysanthemums
(Version 2)

Kurenai
Variegated Scarlet-Pink



Kurenai
Variegated Scarlet-Pink

淡黄
Awaii Ki
Light Yellow


淡黄
Awaii Ki
Light Yellow

淡黄
Awaii Ki
Light Yellow


淡黄
Awaii Ki
Light Yellow

淡蘇芳
Awaii Suou
Light maroon


淡蘇芳
Awaii Suou
Light maroon

淡蘇芳
Awaii Suou
Light maroon


淡蘇芳
Awaii Suou
Light maroon

蘇芳
Suou
Maroon


蘇芳
Suou
Maroon

Citation: affirmed by Fuyuya.com, Kariginu.jp, LizaDalby; Dalby seems to indicate that the top three robes should be gradating shades of suou, but this is not clear


Name Hitoe Kinu 1 Kinu 2 Kinu 3 Kinu 4 Kinu 5
黄菊
KI GIKU

Yellow chrysanthemums
(Version 3)

Ao
Blue-Green



Ao
Blue-Green

淡黄
Awaii Ki
Light Yellow


淡黄
Awaii Ki
Light Yellow

淡黄
Awaii Ki
Light Yellow


淡黄
Awaii Ki
Light Yellow

より淡い蘇芳
Yoi Awaii Suou
Lighter (lit. "More Light") Maroon


より淡い蘇芳
Yoi Awaii Suou
Lighter (lit. "More Light") Maroon

淡蘇芳
Awaii Suou
Light maroon


淡蘇芳
Awaii Suou
Light maroon

蘇芳
Suou
Maroon


蘇芳
Suou
Maroon

Citation: affirmed by Fuyuya.com, LizaDalby; Dalby seems to indicate that the top three robes should be gradating shades of suou, but this is not clear


Name Hitoe Kinu 1 Kinu 2 Kinu 3 Kinu 4 Kinu 5
黄菊
KI GIKU

Yellow chrysanthemums
(Version 4)

Kurenai
Variegated Scarlet-Pink



Kurenai
Variegated Scarlet-Pink

淡黄
Awaii Ki
Light Yellow


淡黄
Awaii Ki
Light Yellow

淡黄
Awaii Ki
Light Yellow


淡黄
Awaii Ki
Light Yellow

より淡い蘇芳
Yoi Awaii Suou
Lighter (lit. "More Light") Maroon


より淡い蘇芳
Yoi Awaii Suou
Lighter (lit. "More Light") Maroon

淡蘇芳
Awaii Suou
Light maroon


淡蘇芳
Awaii Suou
Light maroon

蘇芳
Suou
Maroon


蘇芳
Suou
Maroon

Citation: affirmed by Fuyuya.com, LizaDalby; Dalby seems to indicate that the top three robes should be gradating shades of suou, but this is not clear


Name Hitoe Kinu 1 Kinu 2 Kinu 3 Kinu 4 Kinu 5
紅紅葉 / KURENAI MOMIJI
Scarlet-Pink Maples

Kurenai
Scarlet-Pink



Kurenai
Scarlet-Pink

Lining
淡青
Awaii Ao
Light Blue-Green
淡青
Awaii Ao
Light Blue-Green


淡青
Awaii Ao
Light Blue-Green

Lining
濃青
Koki Ao
Dark Blue-Green
濃青
Koki Ao
Dark Blue-Green


濃青
Koki Ao
Dark Blue-Green

Lining

Ki
Yellow

Ki
Yellow



Ki
Yellow

Lining

Ki
Yellow
淡朽葉
Awaii Kuchiba
Light Decayed-Leaves (color)


淡朽葉
Awaii Kuchiba
Light Decayed-Leaves (color)

Lining

Kurenai
Scarlet-Pink

Kurenai
Scarlet-Pink



Kurenai
Scarlet-Pink

Citation: affirmed by 9784416805442, LizaDalby, Fuyuya.com, Kariginu.jp, SengokuDaimyo; Linings affirmed by 9784416805442, Kariginu.jp; Dalby and one listing on Fuyuya.com omit the Light Blue-Green layer next to the hitoe, leaving the kasane with only 4 kinu, but there is substantial evidence from other sources that this layer should be present.


Name Hitoe Kinu 1 Kinu 2 Kinu 3 Kinu 4 Kinu 5
菊の様々 / Kiku no Samazama -OR- Kiku no Youyou
Varied Chrysanthemums

Ao
Blue-Green



Ao
Blue-Green

Lining

Shiro
White
???
???
Light maroon


???
???
Light maroon

Lining

Shiro
White
???
???
Medium-light maroon


???
???
Medium-light maroon

Lining

Shiro
White
???
???
Medium maroon


???
???
Medium maroon

Lining

Shiro
White
???
???
Dark-medium maroon


???
???
Dark-medium maroon

Lining

Shiro
White
???
???
Dark maroon


???
???
Dark maroon

Citation: affirmed by LizaDalby, Fuyuya.com; existence and seasonality affirmed by Kariginu.jp, SengokuDaimyo


From GOSECHI (middle of the 11th month) through spring

Name Hitoe Hitoe 2 Kinu 1 Kinu 2 Kinu 3 Kinu 4 Kinu 5 Kinu 6
二つ色
FUTATSU NO IRO NI
Colours-two by two
2 kurenai hitoe are worn layered
Variant 1 (Kariginu.jp Interpretation)

Citation: affirmed by LizaDalby, Fuyuya.com (which only lists one hitoe- but this may be an error), Kariginu.jp, SengokuDaimyo (who also lists only one hitoe- but this might be a typo, as this kasane and its variant are the only ones worn with the HIGHLY UNUSUAL double hitoe.); presence of linings affirmed by LizaDalby, Fuyuya.com, Kariginu.jp; Kuchiba lining color of 3rd and 4th kinu supported by LizaDalby and Fuyuya.com, while Kurenai lining is supported by Kariginu.jp. It's possible that both are accepted kasane rather than either being mistakes.
紅単重ね
Kurenai
Scarlet-Pink
2 of these hitoe are worn together, layered (cited by kariginu.jp, fuyuya.com)
紅単重ね
Kurenai
Scarlet-Pink
2 of these hitoe are worn together, layered (cited by kariginu.jp, fuyuya.com)
萌黄
Moegi
Sprout-Green
萌黄
Moegi
Sprout-Green
Lining

Kurenai
Scarlet-Pink

Ki
Yellow (with kurenai lining [via kariginu.jp; fuyuya claims kuchiba])
Lining

Kurenai
Scarlet-Pink

Ki
Yellow (with kurenai lining [via kariginu.jp; fuyuya claims kuchiba])
淡青
薄色
Usu Iro
Pale-Color (color in this case implies violet) (there are two of these layers, making 6 kinu in all, with only two kinu lined)
淡青
薄色
Usu Iro
Pale-Color (color in this case implies violet) (there are two of these layers, making 6 kinu in all, with only two kinu lined)
Name Hitoe Hitoe 2 Kinu 1 Kinu 2 Kinu 3 Kinu 4 Kinu 5 Kinu 6
二つ色
FUTATSU NO IRO NI
Colours-two by two
2 kurenai hitoe are worn layered
Variant 2 (Fuyuya.com Interpretation)

Citation: affirmed by LizaDalby, Fuyuya.com (which only lists one hitoe- but this may be an error), Kariginu.jp, SengokuDaimyo (who also lists only one hitoe- but this might be a typo, as this kasane and its variant are the only ones worn with the HIGHLY UNUSUAL double hitoe.); presence of linings affirmed by LizaDalby, Fuyuya.com, Kariginu.jp; Kuchiba lining color of 3rd and 4th kinu supported by LizaDalby and Fuyuya.com, while Kurenai lining is supported by Kariginu.jp. It's possible that both are accepted kasane rather than either being mistakes.
紅単重ね
Kurenai
Scarlet-Pink
2 of these hitoe are worn together, layered (cited by kariginu.jp, fuyuya.com)
紅単重ね
Kurenai
Scarlet-Pink
2 of these hitoe are worn together, layered (cited by kariginu.jp, fuyuya.com)
萌黄
Moegi
Sprout-Green
萌黄
Moegi
Sprout-Green
Lining
朽葉
Kuchiba
Decayed-Leaves (color)

Ki
Yellow (with kuchiba lining [via fuyuya.com; kariginu.jp claims kurenai])
Lining
朽葉
Kuchiba
Decayed-Leaves (color)

Ki
Yellow (with kuchiba lining [via fuyuya.com; kariginu.jp claims kurenai])
淡青
薄色
Usu Iro
Pale-Color (color in this case implies violet) (there are two of these layers, making 6 kinu in all, with only two kinu lined)
淡青
薄色
Usu Iro
Pale-Color (color in this case implies violet) (there are two of these layers, making 6 kinu in all, with only two kinu lined)


Name Hitoe Hitoe 2 Kinu 1 Kinu 2 Kinu 3 Kinu 4 Kinu 5 Kinu 6
二つ色
FUTATSU NO IRO NI
Colours-two by two
2 kurenai hitoe are worn layered
TASHI VERSION (Fuyuya.com Interpretation)

Citation: affirmed only by Fuyuya.com thus far, but Dalby's translation of Tashi's notes indicates multiple variants exist, which "are not always identical" and it is implied that the number of layers may be even more increased in some of these variants. (p. 273, ISBN 0099428997)
紅単重ね
Kurenai
Scarlet-Pink
2 of these hitoe are worn together, layered (cited by kariginu.jp, fuyuya.com)
紅単重ね
Kurenai
Scarlet-Pink
2 of these hitoe are worn together, layered (cited by kariginu.jp, fuyuya.com)
紅梅
Koubai
Plum-Pink
萌黄
Moegi
Sprout-Green
Lining
朽葉
Kuchiba
Decayed-Leaves (color)

Ki
Yellow (with kuchiba lining [via fuyuya.com; kariginu.jp claims kurenai])
Lining
朽葉
Kuchiba
Decayed-Leaves (color)

Ki
Yellow (with kuchiba lining [via fuyuya.com; kariginu.jp claims kurenai])
淡青
薄色
Usu Iro
Pale-Color (color in this case implies violet) (there are two of these layers, making 6 kinu in all, with only two kinu lined)
淡青
薄色
Usu Iro
Pale-Color (color in this case implies violet) (there are two of these layers, making 6 kinu in all, with only two kinu lined)

PLACEHOLDER TASHI VERSION OF FUTATSU NO IRO NI WITH RED LININGS

Name Hitoe Kinu 1 Kinu 2 Kinu 3 Kinu 4 Kinu 5
花山吹
HANA YAMABUKI

Flowering Kerria-Rose

Ao
Blue-Green



Ao
Blue-Green

淡朽葉
Awaii Kuchiba
Light Decayed-Leaves (color)


淡朽葉
Awaii Kuchiba
Light Decayed-Leaves (color)

淡朽葉
Awaii Kuchiba
Light Decayed-Leaves (color)


淡朽葉
Awaii Kuchiba
Light Decayed-Leaves (color)

淡朽葉
Awaii Kuchiba
Light Decayed-Leaves (color)


淡朽葉
Awaii Kuchiba
Light Decayed-Leaves (color)

淡朽葉
Awaii Kuchiba
Light Decayed-Leaves (color)


淡朽葉
Awaii Kuchiba
Light Decayed-Leaves (color)

淡朽葉
Awaii Kuchiba
Light Decayed-Leaves (color)


淡朽葉
Awaii Kuchiba
Light Decayed-Leaves (color)

Citation: affirmed by 9784416805442, LizaDalby, Fuyuya.com, Kariginu.jp, SengokuDaimyo


Name Hitoe Kinu 1 Kinu 2 Kinu 3 Kinu 4 Kinu 5
色々
IRO IRO|Various Colors|info=Citation: affirmed by Fuyuya.com, Kariginu.jp

Kurenai
Scarlet-Pink
Lining
濃蘇芳
Koki Suou
Deep Maroon
蘇芳
Suou
Maroon
Lining

Kurenai
Scarlet-Pink

Ki
Yellow
Lining
蘇芳
Suou
Maroon
紅梅
Koubai
Plum-Pink
Lining
萌黄
Moegi
Sprout-Green
萌黄
Moegi
Sprout-Green
Lining
薄色
Usu Iro
Pale-Color (color in this case implies violet)
薄色
Usu Iro
Pale-Color (color in this case implies violet)


Name Hitoe Kinu 1 Kinu 2 Kinu 3 Kinu 4 Kinu 5
紫の薄様
MURASAKI NO USUYOU

Thinning Violet

Shiro
White



Shiro
White


Shiro
White



Shiro
White


Shiro
White



Shiro
White

より淡い紫
Yoi Awaii Murasaki
Lighter (lit. "More Light") Violet


より淡い紫
Yoi Awaii Murasaki
Lighter (lit. "More Light") Violet

淡紫
Awaii Murasaki
Light Violet


淡紫
Awaii Murasaki
Light Violet


Murasaki
Violet



Murasaki
Violet

Citation: affirmed by 9784416805442, LizaDalby, Fuyuya.com, Kariginu.jp, SengokuDaimyo; SengokuDaimyo adds a variant which ALSO specifies the color of the uwagi, which must be murasaki.


Name Hitoe Kinu 1 Kinu 2 Kinu 3 Kinu 4 Kinu 5
紫村濃
MURASAKI MURAGO

Violet Concentration Dark

Kurenai
Scarlet-Pink



Kurenai
Scarlet-Pink

淡青
Awaii Ao
Light Blue-Green


淡青
Awaii Ao
Light Blue-Green

濃青
Koki Ao
Dark Blue-Green


濃青
Koki Ao
Dark Blue-Green

より淡い紫
Yoi Awaii Murasaki
Lighter (lit. "More Light") Violet


より淡い紫
Yoi Awaii Murasaki
Lighter (lit. "More Light") Violet

淡紫
Awaii Murasaki
Light Violet


淡紫
Awaii Murasaki
Light Violet


Murasaki
Violet



Murasaki
Violet

Citation: affirmed by 9784416805442, LizaDalby, Fuyuya.com, Kariginu.jp, SengokuDaimyo; Liza Dalby points out that "Murago" refers to dyed patterns in which some spots are darker than others- and if this is the case, then Murasaki Murago is the only only kasane with patterned robes in the entire set.


Name Hitoe Kinu 1 Kinu 2 Kinu 3 Kinu 4 Kinu 5
紫の匂
MURASAKI NO NIOI

Scent of Violet

Kurenai
Scarlet-Pink



Kurenai
Scarlet-Pink

より淡い紫
Yoi Awaii Murasaki
Lighter (lit. "More Light") Violet


より淡い紫
Yoi Awaii Murasaki
Lighter (lit. "More Light") Violet

淡紫
Awaii Murasaki
Light Violet


淡紫
Awaii Murasaki
Light Violet


Murasaki
Violet



Murasaki
Violet


Murasaki
Violet



Murasaki
Violet

濃紫
Koki Murasaki
Dark Violet


濃紫
Koki Murasaki
Dark Violet

Citation: affirmed by 9784416805442, LizaDalby, Fuyuya.com, Kariginu.jp, SengokuDaimyo


The layering of Ume Gasane, with its many possible variants, may be the most disputable of kasane schemes. The "basic" coordinate can have a hitoe of either dark violet or blue-green, which is the maximum variation for most kasane with alternate colors- but it becomes more complex thanks to commentary from the Empress Tashi, who writes that the top three layers may all be plum-pink or scarlet- and adds the comment that the hitoe ought to be scarlet-pink instead of the usual blue-green or dark violet. ("Colours for a Court Lady's Dress", cited by Dalby.) For the two variants with mono-color top 3 kinu, I've included Tashi's color choice- but in all likelihood, those variants would have also (and perhaps more commonly) been worn with the usual blue-green or dark violet hitoe.

Name Hitoe Kinu 1 Kinu 2 Kinu 3 Kinu 4 Kinu 5
梅重
UME GASANE

Plum Layers
濃紫
Koki Murasaki
Dark Violet


濃紫
Koki Murasaki
Dark Violet

濃蘇芳
Koki Suou
Deep Maroon


濃蘇芳
Koki Suou
Deep Maroon


Kurenai
Scarlet-Pink



Kurenai
Scarlet-Pink

紅梅
Koubai
Plum-Pink


紅梅
Koubai
Plum-Pink

淡紅梅
Awaki Koubai
Light Plum-Pink


淡紅梅
Awaki Koubai
Light Plum-Pink

より淡い紅梅
Yoi Awaii Koubai
Lighter (lit. "More Light") Plum-Pink


より淡い紅梅
Yoi Awaii Koubai
Lighter (lit. "More Light") Plum-Pink

Variant 1


Name Hitoe Kinu 1 Kinu 2 Kinu 3 Kinu 4 Kinu 5
梅重
UME GASANE

Plum Layers

Ao
Blue-Green



Ao
Blue-Green

濃蘇芳
Koki Suou
Deep Maroon


濃蘇芳
Koki Suou
Deep Maroon


Kurenai
Scarlet-Pink



Kurenai
Scarlet-Pink

紅梅
Koubai
Plum-Pink


紅梅
Koubai
Plum-Pink

淡紅梅
Awaki Koubai
Light Plum-Pink


淡紅梅
Awaki Koubai
Light Plum-Pink

より淡い紅梅
Yoi Awaii Koubai
Lighter (lit. "More Light") Plum-Pink


より淡い紅梅
Yoi Awaii Koubai
Lighter (lit. "More Light") Plum-Pink

Variant 2


Name Hitoe Kinu 1 Kinu 2 Kinu 3 Kinu 4 Kinu 5
梅重
UME GASANE

Plum Layers

Kurenai
Scarlet-Pink



Kurenai
Scarlet-Pink

濃蘇芳
Koki Suou
Deep Maroon


濃蘇芳
Koki Suou
Deep Maroon


Kurenai
Scarlet-Pink



Kurenai
Scarlet-Pink

紅梅
Koubai
Plum-Pink


紅梅
Koubai
Plum-Pink

紅梅
Koubai
Plum-Pink


紅梅
Koubai
Plum-Pink

紅梅
Koubai
Plum-Pink


紅梅
Koubai
Plum-Pink

Tashi Variant 1


Name Hitoe Kinu 1 Kinu 2 Kinu 3 Kinu 4 Kinu 5
梅重
UME GASANE

Plum Layers

Kurenai
Scarlet-Pink



Kurenai
Scarlet-Pink

濃蘇芳
Koki Suou
Deep Maroon


濃蘇芳
Koki Suou
Deep Maroon


Kurenai
Scarlet-Pink



Kurenai
Scarlet-Pink


Kurenai
Scarlet-Pink



Kurenai
Scarlet-Pink


Kurenai
Scarlet-Pink



Kurenai
Scarlet-Pink


Kurenai
Scarlet-Pink


Kurenai
Scarlet-Pink
Tashi Variant 2


Name Hitoe Kinu 1 Kinu 2 Kinu 3 Kinu 4 Kinu 5
山吹の匂
YAMABUKI NO NIOI

Scent of Kerria-Rose

Ao
Blue-Green



Ao
Blue-Green


Ki
Yellow



Ki
Yellow

より淡い朽葉
Yoi Awaii Kuchiba
Lighter (lit. "More Light") Decayed-Leaves (color)


より淡い朽葉
Yoi Awaii Kuchiba
Lighter (lit. "More Light") Decayed-Leaves (color)

淡朽葉
Awaii Kuchiba
Light Decayed-Leaves (color)


淡朽葉
Awaii Kuchiba
Light Decayed-Leaves (color)

淡朽葉
Awaii Kuchiba
Light Decayed-Leaves (color)


淡朽葉
Awaii Kuchiba
Light Decayed-Leaves (color)

朽葉
Kuchiba
Decayed-Leaves (color)


朽葉
Kuchiba
Decayed-Leaves (color)


Name Hitoe Kinu 1 Kinu 2 Kinu 3 Kinu 4 Kinu 5
雪の下 / YUKI NO SHITA
Beneath the Snow
"yuki no shita" is also a type of flower, which might be source of name instead of obvious snow reference - Dalby
(Version 1)

Ao
Blue-Green



Ao
Blue-Green

Lining
より淡い蘇芳
Yoi Awaii Suou
Lighter (lit. "More Light") Maroon
より淡い紅梅
Yoi Awaii Koubai
Lighter (lit. "More Light") Plum-Pink


より淡い紅梅
Yoi Awaii Koubai
Lighter (lit. "More Light") Plum-Pink

Lining
淡蘇芳
Awaii Suou
Light maroon
淡紅梅
Awaki Koubai
Light Plum-Pink


淡紅梅
Awaki Koubai
Light Plum-Pink

Lining
蘇芳
Suou
Maroon
紅梅
Koubai
Plum-Pink


紅梅
Koubai
Plum-Pink

Lining

Shiro
White

Shiro
White
(possible that outer two kinu are unlined; texts are unclear)



Shiro
White
(possible that outer two kinu are unlined; texts are unclear)

Lining

Shiro
White

Shiro
White
(possible that outer two kinu are unlined; texts are unclear)



Shiro
White
(possible that outer two kinu are unlined; texts are unclear)

Citation: colors of surface and linings affirmed by 9784416805442, Kariginu.jp; existence and surface colors affirmed by 9784416805442, LizaDalby, Fuyuya.com, Kariginu.jp, SengokuDaimyo


Name Hitoe Kinu 1 Kinu 2 Kinu 3 Kinu 4 Kinu 5 Uwagi
雪の下 / YUKI NO SHITA
Beneath the Snow
"yuki no shita" is also a type of flower, which might be source of name instead of obvious snow reference - Dalby
(Version 2)

Ao
Blue-Green



Ao
Blue-Green

淡蘇芳
Awaii Suou
Light maroon


淡蘇芳
Awaii Suou
Light maroon

蘇芳
Suou
Maroon


蘇芳
Suou
Maroon


Shuu
Reddish-Orange; unknown exact html, html approximation from SengokuDaimyo



Shuu
Reddish-Orange; unknown exact html, html approximation from SengokuDaimyo


Shiro
White



Shiro
White


Shiro
White



Shiro
White


Shiro
White



Shiro
White

Citation: this variant supported only by Fuyuya thus far; linings are not specified, but are probably present considering the seasonality, and are possibly the same colors as the surface, or the same colors as the linings in the main/1st variant of Yuki no Shita.


Name Hitoe Kinu 1 Kinu 2 Kinu 3 Kinu 4 Kinu 5 Uwagi
雪の下 / YUKI NO SHITA
Beneath the Snow
"yuki no shita" is also a type of flower, which might be source of name instead of obvious snow reference - Dalby
(Version 3)

Ao
Blue-Green



Ao
Blue-Green

 ???
Asaki Shuu
Light Redish-Orange; unknown kanji and exact html!; html approximation from SengokuDaimyo


 ???
Asaki Shuu
Light Redish-Orange; unknown kanji and exact html!; html approximation from SengokuDaimyo


Shuu
Reddish-Orange; unknown exact html, html approximation from SengokuDaimyo



Shuu
Reddish-Orange; unknown exact html, html approximation from SengokuDaimyo


Shuu
Reddish-Orange; unknown exact html, html approximation from SengokuDaimyo



Shuu
Reddish-Orange; unknown exact html, html approximation from SengokuDaimyo


Shiro
White



Shiro
White


Shiro
White



Shiro
White


Shiro
White



Shiro
White

Citation: this variant supported only by Fuyuya thus far; linings are not specified, but are probably present considering the seasonality, and are possibly the same colors as the surface, or the same colors as the linings in the main/1st variant of Yuki no Shita.


Name Hitoe Kinu 1 Kinu 2 Kinu 3 Kinu 4 Kinu 5
梅染 / UMEZOME
Plum-Dyeing
(the deep maroon linings will slightly show through the upper white fabric, rendering the color of the kinu more pink than white- Dalby, 9784416805442)

Ao
Blue-Green



Ao
Blue-Green

Lining
濃蘇芳
Koki Suou
Deep Maroon

Shiro
White



Shiro
White

Lining
濃蘇芳
Koki Suou
Deep Maroon

Shiro
White



Shiro
White

Lining
濃蘇芳
Koki Suou
Deep Maroon

Shiro
White



Shiro
White

Lining
濃蘇芳
Koki Suou
Deep Maroon

Shiro
White



Shiro
White

Lining
濃蘇芳
Koki Suou
Deep Maroon

Shiro
White



Shiro
White

Citation: top and lining colors affirmed by 9784416805442, LizaDalby, Fuyuya.com, Kariginu.jp; existence and seasonality affirmed by SengokuDaimyo


Name Hitoe Kinu 1 Kinu 2 Kinu 3 Kinu 4 Kinu 5
裏山吹 / URA YAMABUKI
Reverse-Side Kerria-Rose

Ao
Blue-Green



Ao
Blue-Green

Lining
朽葉
Kuchiba
Decayed-Leaves (color)

Ki
Yellow



Ki
Yellow

Lining
朽葉
Kuchiba
Decayed-Leaves (color)

Ki
Yellow



Ki
Yellow

Lining
朽葉
Kuchiba
Decayed-Leaves (color)

Ki
Yellow



Ki
Yellow

Lining
朽葉
Kuchiba
Decayed-Leaves (color)

Ki
Yellow



Ki
Yellow

Lining
朽葉
Kuchiba
Decayed-Leaves (color)

Ki
Yellow



Ki
Yellow

Citation: Colors and Linings affirmed by 9784416805442, LizaDalby, Fuyuya.com, Kariginu.jp, SengokuDaimyo; Top colors, existence and seasonality affirmed by SengokuDaimyo; Fuyuya.com displays a possible unlined variant with the same surface colors in addition to the lined version on another page.


The 4th lunar month: COLOURS FOR THIN ROBES

Name Hitoe Kinu 1 Kinu 2 Kinu 3 Kinu 4 Kinu 5
花橘 / HANA TACHIBANA
Flowering Mandarin-Orange
(Version 1)

Shiro
White



Shiro
White

Lining
淡青
Awaii Ao
Light Blue-Green
淡青
Awaii Ao
Light Blue-Green


淡青
Awaii Ao
Light Blue-Green

Lining

Ao
Blue-Green

Ao
Blue-Green



Ao
Blue-Green

Lining

Shiro
White

Shiro
White



Shiro
White

Lining
淡黄
Awaii Ki
Light Yellow
より淡い朽葉
Yoi Awaii Kuchiba
Lighter (lit. "More Light") Decayed-Leaves (color)


より淡い朽葉
Yoi Awaii Kuchiba
Lighter (lit. "More Light") Decayed-Leaves (color)

Lining

Ki
Yellow
淡朽葉
Awaii Kuchiba
Light Decayed-Leaves (color)


淡朽葉
Awaii Kuchiba
Light Decayed-Leaves (color)

Citation: affirmed by 9784416805442, LizaDalby, Fuyuya.com, Kariginu.jp; LININGS affirmed by 9784416805442, Kariginu.jp


Name Hitoe Kinu 1 Kinu 2 Kinu 3 Kinu 4 Kinu 5
花橘 / HANA TACHIBANA
Flowering Mandarin-Orange
(Version 2)

Ao
Blue-Green



Ao
Blue-Green

Lining
淡青
Awaii Ao
Light Blue-Green
淡青
Awaii Ao
Light Blue-Green


淡青
Awaii Ao
Light Blue-Green

Lining

Ao
Blue-Green

Ao
Blue-Green



Ao
Blue-Green

Lining

Shiro
White

Shiro
White



Shiro
White

Lining
淡黄
Awaii Ki
Light Yellow
より淡い朽葉
Yoi Awaii Kuchiba
Lighter (lit. "More Light") Decayed-Leaves (color)


より淡い朽葉
Yoi Awaii Kuchiba
Lighter (lit. "More Light") Decayed-Leaves (color)

Lining

Ki
Yellow
淡朽葉
Awaii Kuchiba
Light Decayed-Leaves (color)


淡朽葉
Awaii Kuchiba
Light Decayed-Leaves (color)

Citation: affirmed by LizaDalby, Fuyuya.com; LININGS deduced to be the same as Version 1.


PLACEHOLDER for UWAGI VARIANT of HANA TACHIBANA (NO SURE OF SEASONALITY; PUTTING IT HERE UNTIL FURTHER RESEARCH.)

Name Hitoe Kinu 1 Kinu 2 Kinu 3 Kinu 4 Kinu 5
餅躑躅 MOCHI TSUTSUJI
Japanese Azalea / Rice Azalea
(some of these kasane have the "lower" colour listed in the reference as being the same as the top colour; IT IS NOT CLEAR whether this means that those layers are unlined, OR that they might be lined in fabric of the same colour as the surface.)

Shiro
White



Shiro
White

Lining
淡青
Awaii Ao
Light Blue-Green
淡青
Awaii Ao
Light Blue-Green


淡青
Awaii Ao
Light Blue-Green

Lining

Ao
Blue-Green

Ao
Blue-Green



Ao
Blue-Green

Lining
淡蘇芳
Awaii Suou
Light maroon
淡蘇芳
Awaii Suou
Light maroon


淡蘇芳
Awaii Suou
Light maroon

Lining
淡蘇芳
Awaii Suou
Light maroon
淡蘇芳
Awaii Suou
Light maroon


淡蘇芳
Awaii Suou
Light maroon

Lining
蘇芳
Suou
Maroon
蘇芳
Suou
Maroon


蘇芳
Suou
Maroon

Citation: affirmed by 9784416805442, LizaDalby (who lists the 3 outer kinu as going from dark maroon to pale successively, and the two inner kinu as being deep and pale blue-green), Fuyuya.com (same as Dalby in one version, but in another place lists the variant below), Kariginu.jp, SengokuDaimyo; LININGS affirmed by 9784416805442, Kariginu.jp


Name Hitoe Kinu 1 Kinu 2 Kinu 3 Kinu 4 Kinu 5
菖蒲 SHOUBU
Sweet Flag Iris / Japanese Iris
(some of these have the "lower" colour listed in the reference as being the same as the top colour; IT IS NOT CLEAR whether this means that those layers are unlined, OR that they might be lined in fabric of the same colour as the surface.)

Shiro
White



Shiro
White

Lining
淡蘇芳
Awaii Suou
Light maroon
淡紅梅
Awaki Koubai
Light Plum-Pink


淡紅梅
Awaki Koubai
Light Plum-Pink

Lining
蘇芳
Ao
Suou
Maroon
紅梅
Koubai
Plum-Pink


紅梅
Koubai
Plum-Pink

Lining

Shiro
White

Shiro
White



Shiro
White

Lining
淡青
Usu Ao
Light Blue-Green
淡青
Usu Ao
Light Blue-Green


淡青
Usu Ao
Light Blue-Green

Lining

Ao
Blue-Green

Ao
Blue-Green



Ao
Blue-Green

Citation: Existence and top colors affirmed by 9784416805442, LizaDalby (who also notes that there are probably linings, although these are not specified), Fuyuya.com, Kariginu.jp, SengokuDaimyo; Presence of linings speculated by LizaDalby, affirmed by Kariginu.jp, 9784416805442 (although they disagree on the colors of the linings)



Name Hitoe Kinu 1 Kinu 2 Kinu 3 Kinu 4 Kinu 5
躑躅 TSUTSUJI
Azalea/Rhododenron
(some of these have the "lower" colour listed in the reference as being the same as the top colour; IT IS NOT CLEAR whether this means that those layers are unlined, OR that they might be lined in fabric of the same colour as the surface.)

Shiro
White



Shiro
White

Lining
淡青
Awaii Ao
Light Blue-Green
淡青
Awaii Ao
Light Blue-Green


淡青
Awaii Ao
Light Blue-Green

Lining

Ao
Blue-Green

Ao
Blue-Green



Ao
Blue-Green

Lining
より淡い紅梅
Yoi Awaii Koubai
Lighter (lit. "More Light") Plum-Pink
より淡い紅梅
Yoi Awaii Koubai
Lighter (lit. "More Light") Plum-Pink


より淡い紅梅
Yoi Awaii Koubai
Lighter (lit. "More Light") Plum-Pink

Lining
淡紅
Awaii Kurenai
Light Scarlet-Pink
淡紅
Awaii Kurenai
Light Scarlet-Pink


淡紅
Awaii Kurenai
Light Scarlet-Pink

Lining

Kurenai
Scarlet-Pink

Kurenai
Scarlet-Pink



Kurenai
Scarlet-Pink

Citation: affirmed by 9784416805442, LizaDalby, Fuyuya.com, Kariginu.jp, SengokuDaimyo; presence of linings speculated by LizaDalby and affirmed by Fuyuyya.com, while being implied or at least possible in the other references


Name Hitoe Kinu 1 Kinu 2 Kinu 3 Kinu 4 Kinu 5
牡丹 (deduced; original Japanese of source unavailable, but name "botan" and translation as "peony" affirmed by Fuyuya.com and Dalby) BOTAN
Peony

Shiro
White



Shiro
White

Lining

Shiro
White
淡蘇芳
Awaii Suou
Light maroon


淡蘇芳
Awaii Suou
Light maroon

Lining

Shiro
White
淡蘇芳
Awaii Suou
Light maroon


淡蘇芳
Awaii Suou
Light maroon

Lining

Shiro
White
淡蘇芳
Awaii Suou
Light maroon


淡蘇芳
Awaii Suou
Light maroon

Lining

Shiro
White
淡蘇芳
Awaii Suou
Light maroon


淡蘇芳
Awaii Suou
Light maroon

Lining

Shiro
White
淡蘇芳
Awaii Suou
Light maroon


淡蘇芳
Awaii Suou
Light maroon

Citation: existence, name, colors and lining-colors affirmed by Fuyuya.com and Dalby. Dalby adds that the hitoe is of raw silk.


Name Hitoe Kinu 1 Kinu 2 Kinu 3 Kinu 4 Kinu 5
藤 / Fuji (in raw silk)
Wisteria
[Fuji should be robes in raw silk.-Dalby, Fuyuya.com]
(Version 1)

Shiro
White



Shiro
White

Lining
薄色
Usu Iro
Pale-Color (color in this case implies violet) (the sources say "lavender"; usu iro is a guess for the original)

Shiro
White



Shiro
White

Lining
濃紫
Koki Murasaki
Dark Violet

Shiro
White



Shiro
White

Lining
薄色
Usu Iro
Pale-Color (color in this case implies violet) (the sources say "lavender"; usu iro is a guess for the original)
薄色
Usu Iro
Pale-Color (color in this case implies violet) (the sources say "lavender"; usu iro is a guess for the original)


薄色
Usu Iro
Pale-Color (color in this case implies violet) (the sources say "lavender"; usu iro is a guess for the original)

Lining

Murasaki
Violet (the sources say "medium purple"; murasaki is a guess for the original)

Murasaki
Violet (the sources say "medium purple"; murasaki is a guess for the original)



Murasaki
Violet (the sources say "medium purple"; murasaki is a guess for the original)

Lining
濃紫
Koki Murasaki
Dark Violet (the sources say "deep purple"; koki murasaki is a guess for the original)
濃紫
Koki Murasaki
Dark Violet (the sources say "deep purple"; koki murasaki is a guess for the original)


濃紫
Koki Murasaki
Dark Violet (the sources say "deep purple"; koki murasaki is a guess for the original)

Citation: existence of kasane variant affirmed by LizaDalby, Fuyuya.com; lining colors affirmed by LizaDalby, Fuyuya.com (neither of these sources lists kanji, so the original Japanese must be deduced.)


Name Hitoe Kinu 1 Kinu 2 Kinu 3 Kinu 4 Kinu 5
藤 / Fuji (in raw silk)
Wisteria
[Fuji should be robes in raw silk.-Dalby, Fuyuya.com]
(Version 2)

Kurenai
Scarlet-Pink



Kurenai
Scarlet-Pink

Lining
薄色
Usu Iro
Pale-Color (color in this case implies violet) (the sources say "lavender"; usu iro is a guess for the original)

Shiro
White



Shiro
White

Lining
濃紫
Koki Murasaki
Dark Violet

Shiro
White



Shiro
White

Lining
薄色
Usu Iro
Pale-Color (color in this case implies violet) (the sources say "lavender"; usu iro is a guess for the original)
薄色
Usu Iro
Pale-Color (color in this case implies violet) (the sources say "lavender"; usu iro is a guess for the original)


薄色
Usu Iro
Pale-Color (color in this case implies violet) (the sources say "lavender"; usu iro is a guess for the original)

Lining

Murasaki
Violet (the sources say "medium purple"; murasaki is a guess for the original)

Murasaki
Violet (the sources say "medium purple"; murasaki is a guess for the original)



Murasaki
Violet (the sources say "medium purple"; murasaki is a guess for the original)

Lining
濃紫
Koki Murasaki
Dark Violet (the sources say "deep purple"; koki murasaki is a guess for the original)
濃紫
Koki Murasaki
Dark Violet (the sources say "deep purple"; koki murasaki is a guess for the original)


濃紫
Koki Murasaki
Dark Violet (the sources say "deep purple"; koki murasaki is a guess for the original)

Citation: existence of kasane variant affirmed by LizaDalby, Fuyuya.com; lining colors affirmed by LizaDalby, Fuyuya.com (neither of these sources lists kanji, so the original Japanese must be deduced.)
Name Hitoe Kinu 1 Kinu 2 Kinu 3 Kinu 4 Kinu 5
藤 / Fuji (in raw silk)
Wisteria
[Fuji should be robes in raw silk.-Dalby, Fuyuya.com]
(Version 3)

Shiro
White



Shiro
White

Lining
淡青
Awaii Ao
Light Blue-Green

Shiro
White



Shiro
White

Lining

Ao
Blue-Green

Shiro
White



Shiro
White

Lining
より淡い紫
Yoi Awaii Murasaki
Lighter (lit. "More Light") Violet
より淡い紫
Yoi Awaii Murasaki
Lighter (lit. "More Light") Violet


より淡い紫
Yoi Awaii Murasaki
Lighter (lit. "More Light") Violet

Lining
淡紫
Awaii Murasaki
Light Violet
淡紫
Awaii Murasaki
Light Violet


淡紫
Awaii Murasaki
Light Violet

Lining
淡紫
Awaii Murasaki
Light Violet
淡紫
Awaii Murasaki
Light Violet


淡紫
Awaii Murasaki
Light Violet

Citation: existence of kasane scheme affirmed by 9784416805442, Kariginu.jp, SengokuDaimyo, Fuyuya.com (who translates the html value of the colors a bit differently and does not list linings); lining presence and colors affirmed by 9784416805442 and Kariginu.jp


Name Hitoe Kinu 1 Kinu 2 Kinu 3 Kinu 4 Kinu 5
藤 / Fuji (in raw silk)
Wisteria
[Fuji should be robes in raw silk.-Dalby, Fuyuya.com]
(Version 4)

Kurenai
Scarlet-Pink



Kurenai
Scarlet-Pink

Lining
淡青
Awaii Ao
Light Blue-Green

Shiro
White



Shiro
White

Lining

Ao
Blue-Green

Shiro
White



Shiro
White

Lining
より淡い紫
Yoi Awaii Murasaki
Lighter (lit. "More Light") Violet
より淡い紫
Yoi Awaii Murasaki
Lighter (lit. "More Light") Violet


より淡い紫
Yoi Awaii Murasaki
Lighter (lit. "More Light") Violet

Lining
淡紫
Awaii Murasaki
Light Violet
淡紫
Awaii Murasaki
Light Violet


淡紫
Awaii Murasaki
Light Violet

Lining
淡紫
Awaii Murasaki
Light Violet
淡紫
Awaii Murasaki
Light Violet


淡紫
Awaii Murasaki
Light Violet

Citation: existence of kasane scheme affirmed by 9784416805442, Kariginu.jp and Fuyuya.com (who makes the colors slightly darker) ; lining presence and colors inferred from white-hitoe variant in 9784416805442 and Kariginu.jp, and the fact that the scarlet-hitoe variant of the fuji kasane listed by Dalby and Fuyuya.com has the same linings as its alternate form, with the same thing- whether the hitoe is white or scarlet- being the only variable.


Name Hitoe Kinu 1 Kinu 2 Kinu 3 Kinu 4 Kinu 5
藤 / Fuji (in raw silk)
Wisteria
[Fuji should be robes in raw silk.-Dalby, Fuyuya.com]
(Version 5)

Shuu
Reddish-Orange; unknown exact html, html approximation from SengokuDaimyo



Shuu
Reddish-Orange; unknown exact html, html approximation from SengokuDaimyo

Lining
 ???
UNKNOWN COLOR
(We don't know what was used her yet...)

Shiro
White



Shiro
White

Lining
 ???
UNKNOWN COLOR
(We don't know what was used her yet...)

Shiro
White



Shiro
White

Lining
 ???
UNKNOWN COLOR
(We don't know what was used her yet...)
淡紫
Awaii Murasaki
Light Violet (SengokuDaimyo lists "usuki murasaki"; this color being the same as "awaii murasaki" is a guess from the similar appearance and may well be wrong! He doesn't list the kanji.)


淡紫
Awaii Murasaki
Light Violet (SengokuDaimyo lists "usuki murasaki"; this color being the same as "awaii murasaki" is a guess from the similar appearance and may well be wrong! He doesn't list the kanji.)

Lining
 ???
UNKNOWN COLOR
(We don't know what was used her yet...)
淡紫
Awaii Murasaki
Light Violet (SengokuDaimyo lists "usuki murasaki"; this color being the same as "awaii murasaki" is a guess from the similar appearance and may well be wrong! He doesn't list the kanji.)


淡紫
Awaii Murasaki
Light Violet (SengokuDaimyo lists "usuki murasaki"; this color being the same as "awaii murasaki" is a guess from the similar appearance and may well be wrong! He doesn't list the kanji.)

Lining
 ???
UNKNOWN COLOR
(We don't know what was used her yet...)

Murasaki
Violet



Murasaki
Violet

Citation: existence of kasane scheme and colors affirmed by SengokuDaimyo and Fuyuya.com, who do not list lining colors- but since all other fuji variants include linings, this one must as well and the lining colors can probably be inferred from the other fuji variants.


Name Hitoe Kinu 1 Kinu 2 Kinu 3 Kinu 4 Kinu 5
撫子 / Nadeshiko
Pink/Dianthus
(Version 1)

Shiro
White



Shiro
White

Lining
淡青
Awaii Ao
Light Blue-Green

Shiro
White



Shiro
White

Lining

Ao
Blue-Green

Shiro
White



Shiro
White

Lining
紅梅
Koubai
Plum-Pink
淡蘇芳
Awaii Suou
Light maroon


淡蘇芳
Awaii Suou
Light maroon

Lining

Kurenai
Scarlet-Pink
淡蘇芳
Awaii Suou
Light maroon


淡蘇芳
Awaii Suou
Light maroon

Lining
蘇芳
Suou
Maroon
蘇芳
Suou
Maroon


蘇芳
Suou
Maroon

Citation: affirmed by 9784416805442, Fuyuya.com, Kariginu.jp, SengokuDaimyo; linings affirmed by 9784416805442, Kariginu.jp.


Name Hitoe Kinu 1 Kinu 2 Kinu 3 Kinu 4 Kinu 5
撫子 / Nadeshiko
Pink/Dianthus
(Version 2)

Shiro
White



Shiro
White

Lining
淡青
Awaii Ao
Light Blue-Green (Dalby states "pale blue-green"; "usu ao" is a deduction from this.)

Shiro
White



Shiro
White

Lining

Ao
Blue-Green (Dalby states "deep blue-green"; "ao" is a deduction from this.)

Shiro
White



Shiro
White

Lining
紅梅
Koubai
Plum-Pink
濃蘇芳
Koki Suou
Deep Maroon


濃蘇芳
Koki Suou
Deep Maroon

Lining

Kurenai
Scarlet-Pink
蘇芳
Suou
Maroon


蘇芳
Suou
Maroon

Lining
蘇芳
Suou
Maroon
淡蘇芳
Awaii Suou
Light maroon


淡蘇芳
Awaii Suou
Light maroon

Citation: affirmed by LizaDalby, Fuyuya.com; linings affirmed by LizaDalby, Fuyuya.com.


Name Hitoe Kinu 1 Kinu 2 Kinu 3 Kinu 4 Kinu 5
撫子 / Nadeshiko
Pink/Dianthus
(Version 3)

Kurenai
Scarlet-Pink



Kurenai
Scarlet-Pink

Lining
淡青
Awaii Ao
Light Blue-Green (Dalby states "pale blue-green"; "usu ao" is a deduction from this.)

Shiro
White



Shiro
White

Lining

Ao
Blue-Green (Dalby states "deep blue-green"; "ao" is a deduction from this.)

Shiro
White



Shiro
White

Lining
紅梅
Koubai
Plum-Pink
濃蘇芳
Koki Suou
Deep Maroon


濃蘇芳
Koki Suou
Deep Maroon

Lining

Kurenai
Scarlet-Pink
蘇芳
Suou
Maroon


蘇芳
Suou
Maroon

Lining
蘇芳
Suou
Maroon
淡蘇芳
Awaii Suou
Light maroon


淡蘇芳
Awaii Suou
Light maroon

Citation: affirmed by LizaDalby, Fuyuya.com; linings affirmed by LizaDalby, Fuyuya.com.


Name Hitoe Kinu 1 Kinu 2 Kinu 3 Kinu 4 Kinu 5
白撫子 / SHIRO NADESHIKO
White Pink/Dianthus
(Version 1)

Shiro
White



Shiro
White

Lining
淡青
Awaii Ao
Light Blue-Green (Dalby states "pale blue-green"; "usu ao" is a deduction from this.)

Shiro
White



Shiro
White

Lining

Ao
Blue-Green (Dalby states "deep blue-green"; "ao" is a deduction from this.)

Shiro
White



Shiro
White

Lining
紅梅
Koubai
Plum-Pink

Shiro
White



Shiro
White

Lining
蘇芳
Suou
Maroon

Shiro
White



Shiro
White

Lining

Shiro
White

Shiro
White



Shiro
White

Citation: affirmed by 9784416805442, LizaDalby, Fuyuya.com, Kariginu.jp; linings affirmed by LizaDalby, Fuyuya.com.


Name Hitoe Kinu 1 Kinu 2 Kinu 3 Kinu 4 Kinu 5
白撫子 / SHIRO NADESHIKO
White Pink/Dianthus
(Version 2)

Kurenai
Scarlet-Pink



Kurenai
Scarlet-Pink

Lining
淡青
Awaii Ao
Light Blue-Green (Dalby states "pale blue-green"; "usu ao" is a deduction from this.)

Shiro
White



Shiro
White

Lining

Ao
Blue-Green (Dalby states "deep blue-green"; "ao" is a deduction from this.)

Shiro
White



Shiro
White

Lining
紅梅
Koubai
Plum-Pink

Shiro
White



Shiro
White

Lining
蘇芳
Suou
Maroon

Shiro
White



Shiro
White

Lining

Shiro
White

Shiro
White



Shiro
White

Citation: affirmed by 9784416805442, LizaDalby, Fuyuya.com, Kariginu.jp; linings affirmed by LizaDalby, Fuyuya.com.


Name Hitoe Kinu 1 Kinu 2 Kinu 3 Kinu 4 Kinu 5
白撫子 / SHIRO NADESHIKO
White Pink/Dianthus
(Version 3)

Shiro
White



Shiro
White

Lining
淡青
Awaii Ao
Light Blue-Green

Shiro
White



Shiro
White

Lining

Ao
Blue-Green

Shiro
White



Shiro
White

Lining
紅梅
Koubai
Plum-Pink

Shiro
White



Shiro
White

Lining

Kurenai
Scarlet-Pink

Shiro
White



Shiro
White

Lining
蘇芳
Suou
Maroon

Shiro
White



Shiro
White

Citation: affirmed by 9784416805442, Kariginu.jp; linings affirmed by 9784416805442, Kariginu.jp.


Name Hitoe Kinu 1 Kinu 2 Kinu 3 Kinu 4 Kinu 5
白撫子 / SHIRO NADESHIKO
White Pink/Dianthus
(Version 4)

Kurenai
Scarlet-Pink



Kurenai
Scarlet-Pink

Lining
淡青
Awaii Ao
Light Blue-Green

Shiro
White



Shiro
White

Lining

Ao
Blue-Green

Shiro
White



Shiro
White

Lining
紅梅
Koubai
Plum-Pink

Shiro
White



Shiro
White

Lining

Kurenai
Scarlet-Pink

Shiro
White



Shiro
White

Lining
蘇芳
Suou
Maroon

Shiro
White



Shiro
White

Citation: existence, colors and linings affirmed by Fuyuya.com; existence can also be inferred from the fact that all other varieties of "shiro nadeshiko" include both white-hitoe and scarlet-hitoe variants.


Name Hitoe Kinu 1 Kinu 2 Kinu 3 Kinu 4 Kinu 5
卯花 / U no Hana*
Saxifrage
It is important to note that- as with several other kasane!- the lining colors in this kasane WILL show through the upper layer of the robes and will alter their coloration.

The bottom 3 kinu will not look white, even though white is their upper color; instead, the layers above the full-white hitoe will look like very-pale aqua, pale aqua and then pale pastel yellow (source: image from 9784416805442 and graphic from Kariginu.jp).

In this look and the method used to obtain it, "U no Hana" is very similar to "Shiro Nadeshiko".

Shiro
White



Shiro
White

Lining
淡青
Awaii Ao
Light Blue-Green

Shiro
White



Shiro
White

Lining

Ao
Blue-Green

Shiro
White



Shiro
White

Lining

Ki
Yellow

Shiro
White



Shiro
White

Lining

Shiro
White

Shiro
White



Shiro
White

Lining

Shiro
White

Shiro
White



Shiro
White

Citation: existence, colors and lining colors affirmed by 9784416805442, LizaDalby, Fuyuya.com, Kariginu.jp; appearance of lining through upper layers affirmed by visual representations in 9784416805442 and Kariginu.jp + deduction.
  • While Dalby and Fuyuya.com call this kasane "U no Hana", the Japanese name listed in 9784416805442 and Kariginu.jp does not seem to include the "no", so it's possible that the proper name is "U Hana"? (Could someone of greater fluency please confirm this??? )


Name Hitoe Kinu 1 Kinu 2 Kinu 3 Kinu 4 Kinu 5
若楓 (???) / Waka Kaede
New Leaves of Downy Maple
Variant 1

Shiro
White



Shiro
White

Lining
淡萌黄
Awaii Midori
Light Sprout-Green
淡萌黄
Awaii Midori
Light Sprout-Green


淡萌黄
Awaii Midori
Light Sprout-Green

Lining
淡萌黄
Awaii Midori
Light Sprout-Green
淡萌黄
Awaii Midori
Light Sprout-Green


淡萌黄
Awaii Midori
Light Sprout-Green

Lining
淡萌黄
Awaii Midori
Light Sprout-Green
淡萌黄
Awaii Midori
Light Sprout-Green


淡萌黄
Awaii Midori
Light Sprout-Green

Lining
淡萌黄
Awaii Midori
Light Sprout-Green
淡萌黄
Awaii Midori
Light Sprout-Green


淡萌黄
Awaii Midori
Light Sprout-Green

Lining
淡萌黄
Awaii Midori
Light Sprout-Green
淡萌黄
Awaii Midori
Light Sprout-Green


淡萌黄
Awaii Midori
Light Sprout-Green

Citation: existence, colors and lining colors affirmed by LizaDalby, Fuyuya.com; existence and seasonality also confirmed by SengokuDaimyo. Kanji name inferred from name meaning + the kanji in other titles...


Name Hitoe Kinu 1 Kinu 2 Kinu 3 Kinu 4 Kinu 5
若楓 (???) / Waka Kaede
New Leaves of Downy Maple
Variant 2

Kurenai
Scarlet-Pink



Kurenai
Scarlet-Pink

Lining
淡萌黄
Awaii Midori
Light Sprout-Green
淡萌黄
Awaii Midori
Light Sprout-Green


淡萌黄
Awaii Midori
Light Sprout-Green

Lining
淡萌黄
Awaii Midori
Light Sprout-Green
淡萌黄
Awaii Midori
Light Sprout-Green


淡萌黄
Awaii Midori
Light Sprout-Green

Lining
淡萌黄
Awaii Midori
Light Sprout-Green
淡萌黄
Awaii Midori
Light Sprout-Green


淡萌黄
Awaii Midori
Light Sprout-Green

Lining
淡萌黄
Awaii Midori
Light Sprout-Green
淡萌黄
Awaii Midori
Light Sprout-Green


淡萌黄
Awaii Midori
Light Sprout-Green

Lining
淡萌黄
Awaii Midori
Light Sprout-Green
淡萌黄
Awaii Midori
Light Sprout-Green


淡萌黄
Awaii Midori
Light Sprout-Green

Citation: existence, colors and lining colors affirmed by LizaDalby, Fuyuya.com; existence and seasonality also confirmed by SengokuDaimyo. Kanji name inferred from name meaning + the kanji in other titles...


Name Hitoe Kinu 1 Kinu 2 Kinu 3 Kinu 4 Kinu 5
若菖蒲 / Waka Shobu
Young Sweet Flag Iris

Shiro
White



Shiro
White

Lining
より淡い紅梅
Yoi Awaii Koubai
Lighter (lit. "More Light") Plum-Pink

Shiro
White



Shiro
White

Lining
淡紅梅
Awaki Koubai
Light Plum-Pink

Shiro
White



Shiro
White

Lining
紅梅
Koubai
Plum-Pink
淡青
Awaii Ao
Light Blue-Green


淡青
Awaii Ao
Light Blue-Green

Lining

Shiro
White
淡青
Awaii Ao
Light Blue-Green


淡青
Awaii Ao
Light Blue-Green

Lining

Shiro
White

Ao
Blue-Green



Ao
Blue-Green

Citation: existence, colors and lining colors affirmed by 9784416805442, LizaDalby, Fuyuya.com, Kariginu.jp; existence and upper colors affirmed by SengokuDaimyo. 9784416805442 indicates that for the bottom two kinu, the lining color shows through the white top and gives those layers a pinkish color, but Kariginu.jp does not illustrate this. Dalby specifies that the hitoe is of raw silk.


Name Hitoe Kinu 1 Kinu 2 Kinu 3 Kinu 4 Kinu 5
杜若
Kaki Tsubata

Rabbitear Iris (Iris laevigata); this kasane is also sometimes called Persimmon Bud
(Type 1; there are two different versions- one from 4-5th month, one for 5th month- with different colors.)

Kurenai
Scarlet-Pink



Kurenai
Scarlet-Pink

Lining
淡青
Awaii Ao
Light Blue-Green
淡青
Awaii Ao
Light Blue-Green


淡青
Awaii Ao
Light Blue-Green

Lining

Ao
Blue-Green

Ao
Blue-Green



Ao
Blue-Green

Lining
薄色
Usu Iro
Pale-Color (color in this case implies violet)
薄色
Usu Iro
Pale-Color (color in this case implies violet)


薄色
Usu Iro
Pale-Color (color in this case implies violet)

Lining
薄色
Usu Iro
Pale-Color (color in this case implies violet)
薄色
Usu Iro
Pale-Color (color in this case implies violet)


薄色
Usu Iro
Pale-Color (color in this case implies violet)

Lining
淡紫
Awaii Murasaki
Light Violet
淡紫
Awaii Murasaki
Light Violet


淡紫
Awaii Murasaki
Light Violet

Citation: existence and top colours affirmed by 9784416805442, Fuyuya.com, Kariginu.jp, SengokuDaimyo; inner lining colours affirmed by 9784416805442, Kariginu.jp. Kanji colour-names for this variant are affirmed by 9784416805442 are Kariginu.jp and are correct.



Name Hitoe Kinu 1 Kinu 2 Kinu 3 Kinu 4 Kinu 5
牡丹 / Botan
Peony

Shiro
White (IN RAW SILK- Dalby, Fuyuya.com)



Shiro
White (IN RAW SILK- Dalby, Fuyuya.com)

Lining

Shiro
White
淡蘇芳
Awaii Suou
Light maroon


淡蘇芳
Awaii Suou
Light maroon

Lining

Shiro
White
淡蘇芳
Awaii Suou
Light maroon


淡蘇芳
Awaii Suou
Light maroon

Lining

Shiro
White
淡蘇芳
Awaii Suou
Light maroon


淡蘇芳
Awaii Suou
Light maroon

Lining

Shiro
White
淡蘇芳
Awaii Suou
Light maroon


淡蘇芳
Awaii Suou
Light maroon

Lining

Shiro
White
淡蘇芳
Awaii Suou
Light maroon


淡蘇芳
Awaii Suou
Light maroon

Citation: existence and top colors affirmed by LizaDalby, Fuyuya.com, Maccafushigi; Lining colors and raw silk for hitoe affirmed by Dalby and Fuyuya.com. Kanji name affirmed by Maccafushigi. Exact color of top-layers for kinu is stated as "pale maroon" in sources and is assumed to be Awaii Suou, but this could be wrong (there are no kanji sources yet.)


The 5th lunar month: STIFF EDGES (HINERI GASANE) (2 week period) (5 sets are repeats of other. Not identified which ones)

Name Hitoe Kinu 1 Kinu 2 Kinu 3 Kinu 4 Kinu 5
杜若
Kaki Tsubata

Rabbitear Iris (Iris laevigata); this kasane is also sometimes called Persimmon Bud
(Type 2, with Stiff Edges/Hineri Gasane; there are two different versions- one from 4-5th month, one for 5th month- with different colors.)

Kurenai
Scarlet-Pink



Kurenai
Scarlet-Pink

Lining
淡青
Awaii Ao
Light Blue-Green
淡青
Awaii Ao
Light Blue-Green


淡青
Awaii Ao
Light Blue-Green

Lining

Ao
Blue-Green

Ao
Blue-Green



Ao
Blue-Green

Lining
より淡い紫
Yoi Awaii Murasaki
Lighter (lit. "More Light") Violet
より淡い紫
Yoi Awaii Murasaki
Lighter (lit. "More Light") Violet


より淡い紫
Yoi Awaii Murasaki
Lighter (lit. "More Light") Violet

Lining
淡紫
Awaii Murasaki
Light Violet
淡紫
Awaii Murasaki
Light Violet


淡紫
Awaii Murasaki
Light Violet

Lining

Murasaki
Violet

Murasaki
Violet



Murasaki
Violet

Citation: existence and colours affirmed by LizaDalby, Fuyuya.com; presence and colours of linings- as well as some kanji name-colours- inferred from other Kaki Tsubata variant and how confirmed kanji name-colours were translated within the same English-language sources. Japanese-language sources for this kasane are needed- especially for the colour-names. Both English sources imply that the outer 3 layers are successively-lighter shades of violet (Fuyuya.com: "Dark lavender, medium lavender and light lavender" Dalby: "shades of lavender, successively paler") so the colours of the 3 outermost layers are deduced- but without the kanji it's difficult to say what the darkest would be. Fuyuya.com uses "dark lavender" for both the outer layer of this kasane and the outer (murasaki) layer of the "Rindou" kasane, so it's implied that the outer layer would be murasaki (purple). It's also conceivable that the outermost layer might be Awaii Murasaki, with Yoi Awaii Murasaki and Usu Iro further in, since the earlier variant of Kaki Tsubata uses Usu Iro in two layers- but as some known kasane (such as Kurenai no Usuyou and Yuki no Shita) have variants with darker/lighter/similar colours, it's very possible for the outermost layer just to be murasaki/violet. Serious scholarship of this variant is impossible until someone produces a source with colours in kanji names.


5th Day of the 5th Month Until Fall: Color Combinations for Hitoe + Uwagi + Kouchigi

五月五日より秋までの衣の色
Colors of Clothing of up to Autumn from the Fifth Day, Fifth Month
(Source:SeikiNagasaki; sample of content reposted for educational purposes.)

These kasane appear to be for simple hitoe/uwagi/kouchiki combinations- although perhaps they could/should be worn with the 5-layered kasane in between? A rare fabric of ao x ki combined weaving shows up, as does the indigo color "futa-ai" ("two indigo?"), which does not appear in the more typical 5-layered color schemes. All of these kasane except for Ayame no Hitoe Gasane and Futa Ai no Hitoe Gasane feature the forbidden color "kurenai" which was only wearable by the favored/upper ranks...


KASANE NAME Hitoe Uwagi Kouchigi
菖蒲単重 / Ayame no Hitoe Gasane
Japanese Iris/Sweet flag (Acorus calamus) Hitoe

Ao
Blue-Green
蘇芳
Suou
Maroon
二藍
Futa Ai
Two Indigo (??) (HTML approx. from 2xup.org/repos/)
Citation: existence, colors and kanji name affirmed by SeikiNagasaki.


撫子のひとえ重 なでしこひとえがさね Nadeshiko no Hitoe Gasane Pink/Dianthus Hitoe
(you want this, buy the book.)

女郎花単重 おみなえしのひとえがさね Ominaeshi no Hitoe Gasane Golden lace (Patrinia scabiosifolia) Hitoe
(you want this, buy the book.)

萩の単重 はぎのひとえがさね Hagi no Hitoe Gasane Bush Clover (Lespedeza) Hitoe
(you want this, buy the book.)

KASANE NAME Hitoe Uwagi Kouchigi
二藍の単重 / Futa-Ai no Hitoe Gasane
Two-Indigo Hitoe
二藍
Futa Ai
Two Indigo (??) (HTML approx. from 2xup.org/repos/)
経青緯黄
???
WarpBluegreen WeftYellow
(Exact color unknown; samples of this WOVEN color can be seen here. CTRL + F and search that page for this phrase in Japanese: 織り色としての青色 )
蘇芳
Suou
Maroon
Citation: existence, colors and kanji name affirmed by SeikiNagasaki.



葡萄の重 えびぞめのひとえがさね Grapevine/Grapes Hitoe
(you want this, buy the book.)

The 6th month: UNLINED ROBES

Dalby notes [Kimono, pg. 277] that the hitoe "...must always be white. Over it one wears a single unlined robe in one of the following colors: maroon, old-leaf tan, scarlet-pink, lavender, or turquoise-green."

A white hitoe, topped by a single unlined robe in:

蘇芳
Suou
Maroon
Citation: Fuyuya.com, Kariginu.jp, Dalby

Shiro
White
Citation: Fuyuya.com, Dalby
朽葉
Kuchiba
Decayed-Leaves (color)
Citation: Fuyuya.com, Kariginu.jp, Dalby

Kurenai
Scarlet-Pink
Citation: Fuyuya.com, Kariginu.jp, Dalby
淡青
薄色
Usu Iro
Pale-Color (color in this case implies violet)
Citation: Fuyuya.com, Kariginu.jp, Dalby
唐紙
KARAKAMI
(stencil-painted silk) robe, which may be in various colours.
Citation: Fuyuya.com, Kariginu.jp
染付
???
???
Citation: Kariginu.jp
浮線綾
???
???
Citation: Kariginu.jp

Ao
Blue-Green
Citation: Fuyuya.com
 ???
???
Turquoise-Green (Japanese name and color value unknown!)
Citation: Fuyuya.com, Dalby

From the 7th day of the 7th lunar month: CHANGE OUTFITS (3 week period)

Liza Dalby (Kimono, pg. 278) notes that only "...Both kasanes denote woven colors."

[ed. note: I'm assuming that "gowns" refers to kinu; we don't have the kanji sources for these robes yet.]

萩 / Hagi (Lespedeza)

A gown woven of lavender and blue-green thread, worn over blue-green hitoe.


Ao
Blue-Green
薄色
Usu Iro
Pale-Color (color in this case implies violet)

Citation: affirmed by LizaDalby, Fuyuya.com; existence, name and seasonality affirmed by SengokuDaimyo. Kanji is from plant name, but could be wrong.


女郎花 / Ominaeshi (Maidenflower)

A gown woven of yellow and blue-green thread, worn over blue-green hitoe.


Ao
Blue-Green

Ki
Yellow

Citation: affirmed by LizaDalby, Fuyuya.com; existence, name and seasonality affirmed by SengokuDaimyo. Kanji is from plant name, but could be wrong.

From the first day of the 8th lunar month to the 15th: STIFF EDGES Repeating colour schemes, only 1 new one

PLACEHOLDER KIKU (Chrysanthemum) in unlined robes with starch-stiffened edges

PLACEHOLDER MOMIJI (Maples) in unlined robes with starch-stiffened edges

PLACEHOLDER RINDOU

Name Hitoe Kinu 1 Kinu 2 Kinu 3 Kinu 4 Kinu 5

Susuki

Pampas Grass
(Version 1)

Shiro
White



Shiro
White

淡青
Awaii Ao
Light Blue-Green


淡青
Awaii Ao
Light Blue-Green


Ao
Blue-Green



Ao
Blue-Green

淡蘇芳
Awaii Suou
Light maroon


淡蘇芳
Awaii Suou
Light maroon

淡蘇芳
Awaii Suou
Light maroon


淡蘇芳
Awaii Suou
Light maroon

蘇芳
Suou
Maroon


蘇芳
Suou
Maroon

Citation: existence, name and layer colors affirmed by 9784416805442, Fuyuya.com, Kariginu.jp, SengokuDaimyo; kanji name affirmed by 9784416805442, Kariginu.jp. This kasane is identical to mochi tsutsuji.


Name Hitoe Kinu 1 Kinu 2 Kinu 3 Kinu 4 Kinu 5

Susuki

Pampas Grass
(Version 2)

Shiro
White



Shiro
White

淡青
Awaii Ao
Light Blue-Green


淡青
Awaii Ao
Light Blue-Green


Ao
Blue-Green



Ao
Blue-Green

より淡い蘇芳
Yoi Awaii Suou
Lighter (lit. "More Light") Maroon


より淡い蘇芳
Yoi Awaii Suou
Lighter (lit. "More Light") Maroon

淡蘇芳
Awaii Suou
Light maroon


淡蘇芳
Awaii Suou
Light maroon

蘇芳
Suou
Maroon


蘇芳
Suou
Maroon

Citation: existence, name and layer colors affirmed by affirmed by LizaDalby, Fuyuya.com.


Name Hitoe Kinu 1 Kinu 2 Kinu 3 Kinu 4 Kinu 5

Susuki

Pampas Grass
(Version 3- Tashi Version Interpretation 1)
Tashi notes that she thinks that blue-green should come on top, with the middle being (text is missing!) and maroon layers on the bottom, atop a maroon chemise. (Dalby, Kimono, pg. 280) There are multiple possible interpretations of this, including the (slight and unlikely) possibility of a futatsu-iro-like set of more than 5 kinu layers. The most likely interpretation is probably the blue-green layers being shifted to the top and the lighter of the two being replaced with some other, unknown color- but this is speculative.
蘇芳
Suou
Maroon


蘇芳
Suou
Maroon

より淡い蘇芳
Yoi Awaii Suou
Lighter (lit. "More Light") Maroon


より淡い蘇芳
Yoi Awaii Suou
Lighter (lit. "More Light") Maroon

淡蘇芳
Awaii Suou
Light maroon


淡蘇芳
Awaii Suou
Light maroon

蘇芳
Suou
Maroon


蘇芳
Suou
Maroon

 ???
UNKNOWN COLOR
(We don't know what was used here yet...)


 ???
UNKNOWN COLOR
(We don't know what was used here yet...)


Ao
Blue-Green



Ao
Blue-Green

Citation: existence, name and layer colors affirmed by affirmed by LizaDalby, Fuyuya.com.


Name Hitoe Kinu 1 Kinu 2 Kinu 3 Kinu 4 Kinu 5

Susuki

Pampas Grass
(Version 3- Tashi Version Interpretation 2)
Tashi notes that she thinks that blue-green should come on top, with the middle being (text is missing!) and maroon layers on the bottom, atop a maroon chemise. (Dalby, Kimono, pg. 280) There are multiple possible interpretations of this, including the (slight and unlikely) possibility of a futatsu-iro-like set of more than 5 kinu layers. The most likely interpretation is probably the blue-green layers being shifted to the top and the lighter of the two being replaced with some other, unknown color- but this is speculative.
蘇芳
Suou
Maroon


蘇芳
Suou
Maroon

より淡い蘇芳
Yoi Awaii Suou
Lighter (lit. "More Light") Maroon


より淡い蘇芳
Yoi Awaii Suou
Lighter (lit. "More Light") Maroon

淡蘇芳
Awaii Suou
Light maroon


淡蘇芳
Awaii Suou
Light maroon

蘇芳
Suou
Maroon


蘇芳
Suou
Maroon

淡青
Awaii Ao
Light Blue-Green


淡青
Awaii Ao
Light Blue-Green


Ao
Blue-Green



Ao
Blue-Green

Citation: existence, name and layer colors affirmed by affirmed by LizaDalby, Fuyuya.com.


Name Hitoe Kinu 1 Kinu 2 Kinu 3 Kinu 4 Kinu 5

Susuki

Pampas Grass
(Version 3- Tashi Version Interpretation 4 - the unlikely version)
Tashi notes that she thinks that blue-green should come on top, with the middle being (text is missing!) and maroon layers on the bottom, atop a maroon chemise. (Dalby, Kimono, pg. 280) There are multiple possible interpretations of this, including the (slight and unlikely) possibility of a futatsu-iro-like set of more than 5 kinu layers. The most likely interpretation is probably the blue-green layers being shifted to the top and the lighter of the two being replaced with some other, unknown color- but this is speculative.
蘇芳
Suou
Maroon


蘇芳
Suou
Maroon

より淡い蘇芳
Yoi Awaii Suou
Lighter (lit. "More Light") Maroon


より淡い蘇芳
Yoi Awaii Suou
Lighter (lit. "More Light") Maroon

淡蘇芳
Awaii Suou
Light maroon


淡蘇芳
Awaii Suou
Light maroon

蘇芳
Suou
Maroon
[IN BETWEEN SUOU AND AWAII AO THERE MIGHT BE SOME OTHER LAYER(S) OF UNKNOWN COLORS]


蘇芳
Suou
Maroon
[IN BETWEEN SUOU AND AWAII AO THERE MIGHT BE SOME OTHER LAYER(S) OF UNKNOWN COLORS]

淡青
Awaii Ao
Light Blue-Green
[IN BETWEEN SUOU AND AWAII AO THERE MIGHT BE SOME OTHER LAYER(S) OF UNKNOWN COLORS]


淡青
Awaii Ao
Light Blue-Green
[IN BETWEEN SUOU AND AWAII AO THERE MIGHT BE SOME OTHER LAYER(S) OF UNKNOWN COLORS]


Ao
Blue-Green



Ao
Blue-Green

Citation: existence, name and layer colors affirmed by affirmed by LizaDalby, Fuyuya.com.


PLACEHOLDER 紅の薄様 (Kurenai no Usuyou)

PLACEHOLDER 紫の薄様 (Murasaki no Usuyou)

PLACEHOLDER 龍胆 ??? Ryuu

PLACEHOLDER 菊 KIKU (implies any kasane in this theme?)

PLACEHOLDER 紅葉 MOMIJI (implies any kasane in this theme?)

From the 15th day of the 8th lunar month to the 9th day of the 9th month: UNPADDED RAW SILK ( 3 week period)

PLACEHOLDER Maroon, lavender and white are appropriate colours for robes.

PLACEHOLDER MOMIJI (Maples) combinations in raw silks

PLACEHOLDER KIKU (Chrysanthemum) combinations in raw silks

PLACEHOLDER OMINAESHI (yellow and blue-green) Maidenflower

PLACEHOLDER 白菊 SHIRA GIKU

PLACEHOLDER USUIRO

PLACEHOLDER SUOU

OTHER KASANE SCHEMES

These are via Fuyuya.com, SengokuDaimyo and others; their original source is unknown (most are probably from SeikiNagasaki) and their seasonality is likewise unknown, although the seasonality of some kasane- if they have one- might be deducable from their floral motifs (i.e., ume is probably early spring). The color-based kasane (usuyou and nioi) as well as the pine-based kasane (matsu this-or-that) are probably multi-seasonal and/or celebratory. The maple-based kasane (momiji, kaede, etc.) are probably for autumn.

PLACEHOLDER kurenai no usuyou

PLACEHOLDER murasaki no usuyou

PLACEHOLDER hana tachibana

PLACEHOLDER suo nioi (kiku)

PLACEHOLDER tsutsuji hitoe

PLACEHOLDER utsuginu shobu

PLACEHOLDER kurenai momiji

PLACEHOLDER kaede momiji 楓紅葉 (kanji name inferred...)

PLACEHOLDER kihaji momiji

PLACEHOLDER murasaki murago

Name Hitoe Kinu 1 Kinu 2 Kinu 3 Kinu 4 Kinu 5 Uwagi
柳桜は裏薄色 / Yanagi-zakura wa Urausu Iro
willow cherry-tree undersurface pale-colour)

Shuu
Reddish-Orange; unknown exact html, html approximation from SengokuDaimyo



Shuu
Reddish-Orange; unknown exact html, html approximation from SengokuDaimyo


Shiro
White



Shiro
White


Shiro
White



Shiro
White


Shiro
White



Shiro
White


Shiro
White



Shiro
White


Shiro
White



Shiro
White


Shiro
White



Shiro
White

Citation: affirmed by Fuyuya.com, SengokuDaimyo, SeikiNagasaki; kanji name affirmed by SeikiNagasaki

Examples: 1. worn with hosonaga,


PLACEHOLDER ume gasane

PLACEHOLDER yuki no shita

PLACEHOLDER yuki no shita

PLACEHOLDER yamabuki

PLACEHOLDER matsu zakura

PLACEHOLDER kabo zakura

PLACEHOLDER ura giku

PLACEHOLDER matsu gasane,chiri momiji

PLACEHOLDER koubai noi

PLACEHOLDER moegi nioi

PLACEHOLDER utsuroi kiku

PLACEHOLDER fuji

PLACEHOLDER musuginu futairo

PLACEHOLDER mutsuginu sakura tsutsuji

PLACEHOLDER mutsuginu iroiro

PLACEHOLDER kiku no onzoyatsu

PLACEHOLDER momiji gasane yatsu

PLACEHOLDER utsuroi giku

PLACEHOLDER ki momiji

Name Hitoe Kinu 1 Kinu 2 Kinu 3 Kinu 4 Kinu 5 Uwagi Kouchigi
皆紅の衣 / Mina Kurenai no Kinu
Kinu of All-Scarlet

Kurenai
Scarlet-Pink



Kurenai
Scarlet-Pink


Kurenai
Scarlet-Pink



Kurenai
Scarlet-Pink


Kurenai
Scarlet-Pink



Kurenai
Scarlet-Pink


Kurenai
Scarlet-Pink



Kurenai
Scarlet-Pink


Kurenai
Scarlet-Pink



Kurenai
Scarlet-Pink


Kurenai
Scarlet-Pink



Kurenai
Scarlet-Pink


Shiro
White



Shiro
White


Ao
Blue-Green



Ao
Blue-Green

Citation: existence, kanji name and hitoe + kinu colors affirmed by SeikiNagasaki; existence and appearance affirmed by ryuwadou.co.jp and moblogger.r-stone.net, who possibly takes the information from SeikiNagasaki.

Examples: 1.mina kurenai on hina doll, 2.graphic of mina kurenai



Heian Color Swatches

Colors from 素晴らしい装束の世界―いまに生きる千年のファッション (ISBN 9784416805442)

The following colors are from high-resolution scans of the book "素晴らしい装束の世界―いまに生きる千年のファッション". These are the colors used for the bulk of this article; color approximations from various web references are also included in the tables beneath this one. This section is incomplete. Colors used are archived here for reference until they can be added to this table.


Shiro
White
#ffffff
より淡い紅梅
Yoi Awaii Koubai
Lighter (lit. "More Light") Plum-Pink
#e2768f
淡紅梅
Awaki Koubai
Light Plum-Pink
#d65a70
紅梅
Koubai
Plum-Pink
#ba374c
濃紅梅
Koki Koubai
Deep Plum-Pink
#a02434
より淡い紅
Yoi Awaii Kurenai
Lighter (lit. "More Light") Scarlet-Pink
#e47c71
淡紅
Awaii Kurenai
Light Scarlet-Pink
#e1634e

Kurenai
Scarlet-Pink
#dd4735
濃紅
Koki Kurenai
Deep Scarlet-Pink
#cf3420
より淡い蘇芳
Yoi Awaii Suou
Lighter (lit. "More Light") Maroon
#E47371
淡蘇芳
Awaii Suou
Light maroon
#af403e
蘇芳
Suou
Maroon
#751f21
濃蘇芳
Koki Suou
Deep Maroon
#6e1f26
より淡い朽葉
Yoi Awaii Kuchiba
Lighter (lit. "More Light") Decayed-Leaves (color)
#f2bc8a
淡朽葉
Awaii Kuchiba
Light Decayed-Leaves (color)
#e89a68
淡黄
Awaii Ki
Light Yellow
#dbd879

Ki
Yellow
#ddcf3e
より淡い萌黄
Yoi Awaii Moegi
Lighter (lit. "More Light") Sprout-Green
#b3b984
淡萌黄
Awaii Moegi
Light Sprout-Green
#81834d
萌黄
Moegi
Sprout-Green
#55543c
濃萌黄
Koki Moegi
Dark Sprout-Green
#3f3a33
淡青
Awaii Ao
Light Blue-Green
#6e7a5a
濃青
Koki Ao
Dark Blue-Green
#414838

Ao
Blue-Green
#505c41



Main Colors from Fuyuya.com, Sengoku Daimyo, Liza Dalby

DARK BLUE GREEN
FUKAKI MIDORI
#006248
BLUE GREEN
AO
#465B22
MEDIUM BLUE-GREEN
ASAKI AO
#3F8D66
LIGHT BLUE GREEN
AO ASAKI MIDORI
#45A780
PALE BLUE GREEN
ASA MIDORI
#7ABA84
DARK SPROUT-GREEN
KOKI MOEGI
#39681A
SPROUT-GREEN
MOEGI
#519324
MEDIUM SPROUT-GREEN
USUKI MOEGI
#66BA2E
LIGHT SPROUT-GREEN
USUKI MOEGI AWAKU
#8CD75B
PALE SPROUT-GREEN
 ???
#C1E9A7
DARK PLUM-PINK
KOKI KÔBAI
#AC2D50
PLUM-PINK
KÔBAI
#D25376
MEDIUM PLUM-PINK
 ???
#DF849D
LIGHT PLUM-PINK
USUKI KÔBAI
#E7B4C2
PALE PLUM PINK
SAKURA IRO
#FAC8FA
DARK MAROON
FUKAKI SUO
#6F0000
MAROON
SUO
#990000
LIGHT MAROON
ASAKI SUO
#C53843
PALE MAROON
ASAKI SUO
#D76F76
DARK YELLOW
FUKAKI KI
#D4D900
YELLOW
KI
#FBFF44
LIGHT YELLOW
ASAKI KI
#E7EA75
HAGI
(Lespedeza japonica)
#61A781
OMINAESHI
(Patrinia scabiosaefolia)
#E6F939
DARK SCARLET-PINK
FUKAKI HI
#A50024
SCARLET-PINK
KURENAI
#CC0000
MEDIUM SCARLET-PINK
USUKI KURENAI
#F74F5B
LIGHT SCARLET-PINK
USUKI KURENAI AWAKU
#FA8B94
PALE SCARLET-PINK
 ???
#FCBEC2
PERSIMMON
SHU
#FF3300
GOLDEN YELLOW
YAMABUKI
#F2C539
MEDIUM GOLDEN YELLOW
KUCHIBA IRO
#F6C64F
LIGHT GOLDEN YELLOW
USUKI YAMABUKI
#F5D36B
TURQUOISE-GREEN
 ???
#07B48D
DARK PURPLE
FUKAKI MURASAKI
#55154B
PURPLE
MURASAKI
#721C65
MEDIUM PURPLE
MURASAKI
#A34773
LIGHT PURPLE
ASAKA KESHI MURASAKI
#B86DA9
LAVENDER
 ???
#CF9CC5



Other Colors from Fuyuya.com, Sengoku Daimyo, Liza Dalby

 ???
KOKI AO
#3F521F
 ???
MIDORI AO
#006633
 ???
*ASA MIDORI / *ASAKI MIDORI
#7ABA84
 ???
USUKI MIDORI AO
#00954A
 ???
*ASAKI AO / *AWAKI AO
#3F8D66
 ???
*AWAKI MOEGI/ *ASAKI MOEGI
#66BA2E
 ???
PALER AWAKI MOEGI
#A4DF7B
 ???
ÔDAN
#FF8000
 ???
USUIRO
#8A93BE
 ???
FUKAKI KURENAI
#910000
 ???
KOKI KURENAI
#C10000
 ???
*USUKI KURENAI / *ASAKI KURENAI
#F74F5B
 ???
*PALE USUKI KURENAI / *PALE ASAKI KURENAI
#FB979E
 ???
*PALE USUKI KURENAI / *USUKI KURENAI AWAKI
#FA8F98
 ???
KOKI MURASAKI
#581635
 ???
USUKI MURASAKI
#A2288F
 ???
*ASAKI MURASAKI / *AWAKI MURASAKI
#BA93BE
 ???
*ASAKI MURASAKI / *SHIRA MURASAKI
#CDB0D0
 ???
*PALE ASAKI MURASAKI / *PALE AWAKI MURASAKI
#DAC7DC
 ???
FUKAKU SHU
#F23100
 ???
AKAKI SHU
#E12A26
 ???
ASAKI SHU
#FF6842
 ???
*ASAKI KUCHIBA / *AWAKI KUCHIBA
#F9D984
 ???
*PALE ASAKI KUCHIBA / *PALE AWAKI KUCHIBA
#FBE6AC
 ???
KOKI KÔBAI
#AC2D50
 ???
*ASAKI KÔBAI / *AWAKI KÔBAI
#DB7591
 ???
PALER ASAKI KÔBAI / PALER AWAKI KÔBAI / USUKI KOBAI
#E7B4C2
 ???
AWAKI KI
#FCFF71
 ???
FUKAKI SÛO
#6F0000
 ???
KOKI SÛO
#581635
 ???
*ASAKI SÛO / *AWAKI SÛO
#C53843
 ???
*PALE ASAKI SÛO / *PALEAWAKI SÛO
#CE535C



Links and Sources

Sources Used (Cited name in bold before source info...)

  • 9784416805442 - 素晴らしい装束の世界―いまに生きる千年のファッション (Subarashii Shouzoku no Sekai - Ima ni Ikiru Sennen no Fasshon / "Magnificent Costume World - Fashions From a Millennium Ago That Are Still Alive Today") by 八條 忠基 (Hachijou Tadamoto), 森脇 章彦 (Moriwaki Akihiko), SHOKO. (A Heian costume reference book encompassing garment construction, robe-wear, colour schemes, dressing methods, hairstyles and many others. Japanese-language book.)
  • LizaDalby - Kimono: Fashioning Culture by Liza Dalby (Reference book detailing history and style of kimono, with entire chapter on Kasane no Irome. One of the most well-known and referred-to books on the topic of kimono. English-language book.)
  • Fuyuyya.com - Fuyuya.com Kasane Reference Site (English) (Graphics and list of Kasane no Irome; almost complete. Lacks kanji names. English-language site.)
  • Kariginu.jp - 襲色目・かさねいろめ(女房装束 Karaginu.jp (Graphics and mostly-complete list of the basic 5-layered Kasane schemes. Japanese-language site.)
  • SengokuDaimyo - Sengoku Daimyo Garb (Graphics and list of Kasane no Irome, including some rare ones. Incomplete. Lists kasane other sites omit. Lacks kanji names. English-language site.)
  • SeikiNagasaki (new source! still being added to lists) - かさねの色目―平安の配彩美 () by 長崎 盛輝 (Nagasaki Seiki) (Japanese-language book which seems to have been the source for some of the rarer kasane no irome in the SengokuDaimyo site. Includes things like Kiku no Onzoyatsu and the uwagi-specified variants of the more common kasane like Yuki no Shita.)
  • Maccafushigi (new source! still being added to lists) - 続 襲色目と重色目 フロント 摩訶不思議へ Maccafushigi (Graphics and partial of Kasane no Irome, including some rare ones. Japanese-language site.)


Other Related Links
Wodefordhall Medieval Kimono Construction Page (Medieval kimono construction and sewing notes)
Sengoku Daimyo - Heian Color Approximations (HTML and Floss)
Anne Liese's Fibers and Stuff (Medieval kimono construction and sewing notes)
Kasane no Irome: Japanese Wikipedia

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