Advice for Yumi Yamamoto Pattern

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Advice for Yumi Yamamoto Pattern

Post by IG Team » Sat Mar 11, 2017 6:54 am

Nyoko

Konbanwa everybody

i just recived "Kimono Making by Sewing Machine" from Yumi Yamamoto and i really love it but there is one thing i would like to get your advice,...

the included pattern looks good so far, so i would like to give it a try. The Wingspan fits, the Lenght fits, but i need 20cm more around the waist/body whatever ^^;

what should i do? just add +10cm on each okumi and make the eri longer? or should i add the cm at the body panel. if i do so, the wingspan wouldnt fit anymore :/ but does it look strange if i add+10cm at the okumi? has anybody tried this pattern and also customized it?

(sry for my english, i hope you can understand me...>____<;;;;)

どもあっりがとうごやいます。

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Re: Advice for Yumi Yamamoto Pattern

Post by IG Team » Sat Mar 11, 2017 6:56 am

Chiisana Hato

Usually it is best to add little bits at each seam so it totals the amount needed overall.

I just got the same book and need to add around the hips as well, so let us know how it goes! :)

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Re: Advice for Yumi Yamamoto Pattern

Post by IG Team » Sat Mar 11, 2017 6:56 am

Nyoko

chiisana, how much do you need to add?

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Re: Advice for Yumi Yamamoto Pattern

Post by IG Team » Sat Mar 11, 2017 6:56 am

Peccantis

Well, you have 6 parts around the body circumference: front migoro left and right, back migoro left and right, plus both okumi. You'll be fine by just making the migoro panels 3,5 cm wider than originally suggested -- this adds to 7 cm in both front and back, so 14 cm in total circumference -- and both okumi panels 3 cm wider, and everything will combine to precisely 20 cm larger circumference than original pattern.

You don't tell your personal measurements but in case you are busty like me, you'll do well to sew your eri in a bit less steep angle than is standard. This helps with the collar angle when dressing up.

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Re: Advice for Yumi Yamamoto Pattern

Post by IG Team » Sat Mar 11, 2017 6:57 am

Tsubame

If I understand, you're worried that if you add extra cm to the sides of the body panels, they will add also on the shoulders, so that you will have a wider wingspan and ends up with too long sleeves, right?

First, usually the body panels are wider on shoulders than on body
(for example see here, scans uploaded by Tzippurah). So you can make everything the same width, and you gain cm on body without modifing the shoulders, but I don't know how your pattern is.
And if you need more cm, you can add them on all the body width, and rest them from the sleeves, so that the wingspan will fit you.

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Re: Advice for Yumi Yamamoto Pattern

Post by IG Team » Sat Mar 11, 2017 6:57 am

Peccantis

I thiiiiink when I did the PROJECT DAINAMIKKU I had a similar problem with too much wingspan from wide migoro (junk in the trunk, crowd in the balcony and... tiny little shoulders).

The shoulder seams are supposed to fall to about the upper 1/3 mark or the middle of your upper arm but if it's wide enough to go lower than that, guess what... you can make the seam allowance on the migoro wider from the waist area towards the top fold (shoulder line) (i.e. finished width of panel gets smaller) and no one will be the wiser. I thiiiiink this is what I did. It helps with both the wingspan and also if you have a narrow back compared to your midriff/bottom it makes you not have so much extra migoro at the top line of the obi.

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Re: Advice for Yumi Yamamoto Pattern

Post by IG Team » Sat Mar 11, 2017 6:57 am

Nyoko

@all : Thank you for your quick and detailed posts. They helped me to imagine my next steps and leveled my encourage.

@peccantis: well for European standards i would say no, but for Asia yes. do you have experience with the measurements?

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Re: Advice for Yumi Yamamoto Pattern

Post by IG Team » Sat Mar 11, 2017 6:58 am

Peccantis

nyoko-san, measurements aren't very useful for this question as it really depends on overall proportion and how much you are able and willing to compress/bind for "everyday" wear -- and collar angle desired would also depend on age of the wearer.

The higher your bust is, the more you have to pull the upwards to get a collar angle proper for a young lady. If the bust is high enough, this will create unwelcom pull and perhaps wrinkles and trouble with getting a neat ohashori. If you have had exprerience of this with pre-existing kimono, it's a sign sewing the collar less steep would be beneficial.

From my own experience I'll give this tip: finish up the rest of the garment as normal. Before sewing on the collar, baste its middle at the nape of the neck and try the garment on like it was finished -- with the underwear and kimono bra/binding you'll likely be wearing in the future, ohashori and all. With the front migoro and okumi lying flat and nice, lay on the loose left side end of the eri and figure out the angle you want to sew it on in. Pin it in place with a few, take everything off (you can leave your hat on), and proceed to pin the right side eri in the same angle and you'll be ready to sew it in place.

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Re: Advice for Yumi Yamamoto Pattern

Post by IG Team » Sat Mar 11, 2017 6:59 am

Dragon_Geisha

When I made mine from the pattern in the back of the book I had to do major altering as I'm about 20cm taller than the kimono pattern and my ideal yuki is 80cm so I had to widen the shoulders/sleeves and lengthen it to 188cm... but it was fairly easy to do... for altering you could measure the areas that would need to be altered and then add the difference, between your measurments and the patterns measurements, to the pattern peices... I'd add to both the body and the okumi for balance... and if you look at a lot of kimono the sewing line is rarely straight up and down it's zigzagged to fit the wears preportions...

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